3406b pump mod help!!

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by flc120, Aug 14, 2012.

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  1. flc120

    flc120 Heavy Load Member

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    as for the AFRC valve the cover is held on by only 2 screws? i noticed there are 4 in total so 2 of them should be shorter if they only hold cover and not complete body. if i only pull those 2 screws off for the cover no thing inside cover will come out correct?

    article says to just screw in set screw till flush or a couple threads for jam nut to lock onto.
     
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  3. SmokinCAT

    SmokinCAT Road Train Member

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    Yes, there are only two bolts that hold the cover on, they might be an inch long, the ones the hold the afc to the pump housing are rather long. Yes you can go till the screw is flush with the nut.
     
  4. SmokinCAT

    SmokinCAT Road Train Member

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    They control the rack movement, one is overall rack movement and the other controls torque rise. They will add smoke, but it also adds power.
     
  5. flc120

    flc120 Heavy Load Member

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    in the post i found on the internet he says to push your finger in to slotted hole and push in on servo????

    "Just face the front of the truck, turn palm up and stick it in. Again, and just to clarify, this is all idiot proof and you can't mess anything up on any of this. Ain't rocket science, for real. Easiest motor to jack up, for sure. SSSooooo, you'll feel the rack screw bar with the fuel and torque screws. Just push on whatever you run into in there. The more travel, the more servo movement. All you're doing with your finger is makin sure another bonehead wasn't in there playin"

    is this is the AFRC?

    so once i pull off AFRC cover off the back the adjustment set screw i will be playing with will stay on the pump end or on the end of the cover which is in my hand?
     
  6. SmokinCAT

    SmokinCAT Road Train Member

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    Afc adjuter stays on pump, to find the proper cover there should be a steel line connecting the manifold to the back of the pump.
     
  7. flc120

    flc120 Heavy Load Member

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    well i just came back in from working on the 2nd part of the pump the AFRC but to my surprise when i pulled off cover it already had been adjusted the set screw threads were flush with the jam nut..... so someone was playing in there before.
     
  8. Semi Crazy

    Semi Crazy Road Train Member

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    I'll try to explain it simple. Forget the AFRC for now. To be sure the torque screw is correct in relation to the fuel screw, you do it the "springs method" way in Tony's write up.
    Pull and hold your rack full throttle for this. Hook a bungee or whatever to hold it. Back both screws out until they don't contact anything. Screw in fuel screw (engine/right side) until it hits the rack block. Lock it down. Screw in torque screw (frame/left side) until it hits torque block. Give it another 1/4 turn and lock it down. You want to feel a [bleep]hair's worth of spring pressure when you push in on the torque screw. Slap on the cover and done.

    For the AFRC you could do what I did and get rid of it all together and put a cover plate over the hole and a plug in the manifold hole. I posted this http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113588 for the info on how to do it.

    Or you could chop the end off the AFRC but you'd still have the diaphragm to worry about.
     
  9. flc120

    flc120 Heavy Load Member

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    "Hook a bungee or whatever to hold it. Back both screws out until they don't contact anything. Screw in fuel screw (engine/right side) until it hits the rack block. Lock it down. Screw in torque screw (frame/left side) until it hits torque block. Give it another 1/4 turn and lock it down. You want to feel a [bleep]hair's worth of spring pressure when you push in on the torque screw"

    you mean hold the throttle wide open?
    so how do i know when i have beacked out the set screw when its not in contact with anything? then it says to screw in set screw until you feel it hit RACK block? but how will i know you cant see in there?
     
  10. flc120

    flc120 Heavy Load Member

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    so in the pic below semi crazy? i would be deleting the complete 3" long body of the AFRC off the pump basically making it flat with the back body of thepump? cab i just pull it off completely cap it off with a piece of metal and short screws and plug intake and call it a day? Why is the post in the link you posted lisitng a large yellow o-ring and 3 smaller ones ?where do these goto if i delete afrc competely?[​IMG]
     
  11. flc120

    flc120 Heavy Load Member

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    also i read in writes up you linked to that people pull of the hand prime pump off the filter head?

    what all goes into doing this mod? i know theres 2 screws that hold the prime pump onto housing i take these off and pump should come off corrcect? it says something has to be drilled out of the filter head is this done while it still on the truck?

    if i dont have an alternate method or priming system if it goes empty will this hurt me in anyway (not having a prime pump) wold it be harder to start or impossible to start without the prime pump? or can i live without it. till now i havent used it.
     
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