Chaining tires question

No, the part that will break will be the weakest link in the drive train. It could be any axle...could be a drive shaft or u-joint....even the through shaft. There is nothing mechanically directing power primarily to any single corner of the drives. An open differential sends power to whichever wheel spins the easiest...path of least resistance. If they all have traction, they all get power. Most broken axle situations are going to be the result of a tire breaking traction, receiving all of the power (path of least resistance) and then finding traction again before the knucklehead behind the wheel lifts off the throttle.

 

anyone that thinks any certain tires are the ones that get the power does not understand how a diff works. as another poster said power will follow the path of least resistance.

as far as singles vrs doubles, double row chains, or 3 railers or 1 1/2 pair chains whatever you wanna call them are far better than singles, singles work fine in glare ice or black ice however get in deep snow or compacted snow on a steep grade they will leave you stuck before doubles will. what happens is if you spin the chain will very quickly dig out under itself and then your weight will rest on the unchained inner dual. throwing 2 3 railers is easier than 4 singles. some singles should still be carried however i like them for drag chains and also have occasionally had to throw a steer chain. if you have to chain a steer chain your passenger side steer as it is away from the steering box/ pit-man arm. singles do make a big improvement over barefoot and are probably sufficient for most anything a otr driver will come across.

 

I run half moon fenders over my front drives. If I dont have those fenders on, I sling mud onto the back of the truck, the top, against the mirror, and big mud clumps on the hood.

 

I forgot to mention to the OP that chaining both inner and outer tires on the rear axle would keep the chains off the 1/4 fenders and provide better traction in deep do do. That may not satisfy the DOT though, and you will have to run with the interaxle diff locked.

Take the time to install the chains as tight as you can. A tight chain will not come off, and the time and hassle to reset the chains is not worth the risk. Pull any loose ends tight with a bungie cord, add a couple more to take up any slack that develops. Maybe pick up a set of those "Spider" bungies for long mile runs with chains.

 

This is going to sound stupid but I have found that it is easier to put a double tire chains on than a single tire chain. The weight of the double helps to take any unwanted slack out of the chain. This saves you time by not having to fight the single chain into place and keep it there while putting it on the tire.

 

This is an excelent post and is absoulety right!

 

Heres another one ya'll oughta re-read! It's right as well!....really startin' ta like ya there bulldog!

HOWEVER,,,I've noticed over the years that the r/r & l/f drive-tires wear quicker, than the others. Since I do understand how a pwr. divider & differentials work,,,I'd assume that on DRY pavement, those do most of the "driving". Your thoughts Bulldog?
This is not a test! It's a question without a bushwhack later. Whatcha think?...Thanks.

 

your tire wear has to to with the direction the tq is being applied to the axles threw the drive line.

to help get your chains as tight as you can after you get the on drive forward 10 feet or so and then re tighten them you can normally get another link or two after driving a few feet and everything kinda settles.