MotorKote.. Does it work?

I agree, have used MotorKote in my personal car, saw NO change in mileage..Don't like Mr. Mr. MotorKote..commercials sound like someone is tickling his "you know what's?" With a feather...he told a story in April 2011 when he was in Los Angeles about a guy on a "crotch rocket" driving through stopped traffic @ 40mph grabbing purses out of women's cars....HA! What a lard head! Any how...a chemist from An oil company said they constantly are testing oils for closer engine tolerances and extreme heat new engines put out...I tend to stay with the chemist..he said NOTHING bad about any of additive companies but the new oil is just as good. I think a good filtration system and good oil is still the way to go...haven't checked out a Gulf Coast Bypass system yet...any comments on that? I'm familiar with Luberfiner system! Thanks for the opportunity to speak!

 

Years ago I tried motorkote in a Dakota 318 engine and the transmission. We always let this truck in storage in the winter. I think I put it in just out of storage, and did the proper oil changes at the recommended intervals. the next season when did the normal maintenance and drove it for about a month then lost OIL PRESSURE. pulled the oil pan and the pickup was clogged with some type of hard substance. Years later the transmission needed rebuilt. It had this same crap clogging the ports and coated all over the hard parts inside. The tech asked what I put in it and said he couldn't stand behind the rebuild if we used this case cause there was no telling how clogged all the various ports would be.
You decide for yourself, but I have come to the conclusion that I will only use normal high grade oils, lubricants and filters.

 

I am inclined to side with you..a good grade oil and regular oil changes have been the norm for years..just like lubing your truck..I do it every 3000 miles..5000 on U Joints & clutch throw out bearing Grease and oil are cheap compared to an overhaul..thanks for your input

 

Kind of like Slick 50

 

I agree. I am not sure why folks are so inclined to think that modern engine oils will not do an excellent job by themselves. This has gone on probably since internal combustion engines were introduced. And, boy, the marketing folks sure capitalize on that mindset and can sell massive amounts of products that promise so much and deliver very little if anything.

The Gulf Coast is a fine bypass system, as is the OPS, FS2500, Amsoil, Spinner II, etc. They each have plusses and minuses, but they all get the job done at keeping oil cleaner. The minute differences in filtration really are the subject of lab studies and don't make that much difference in the real world. Who cares if one filter will filter to 3 micron, 2 micron, or 1 micron. You read any serious report put out by Tribologists who study this stuff, and the size where soot and such start causing a problem is above 3 microns. And you can't just look at micron size, but also effective flow ratios and how that factors into the equation. This all can get more technical than most folks are able to absorb. Just forget all the technical junk and know that all of the major add on bypass oil filtration systems work well. All one needs to concern themselves with is how a particular system works for them in ease of installation, cost for filters, ease of maintenance, and the amount of replacement oil needed for a filter change. Some of these units can quickly become Popular Mechanics type of installation projects. One or two of them provide everything needed to mount the device complete with the proper length stainless braided hose, fittings, etc. Simple plug and play type of thing. Some of the others will require you to track down fittings, hose, etc and cut to fit and basically "reinvent the wheel" on installation. In many cases, the old idea that "you get what you pay for" applies. From what I have found, is that the cheaper the unit itself is to buy, the more your will have to improvise and waste time getting it installed properly. So you have to decide how valuable your time is.

Just look at all of the bypass product offerings, see how they work and install, and see how much they cost to buy, install, and maintain. Figure out what works best for you and is the best value and go with it. I have my preference on what bypass unit I like, and that may or may not be the one that you like. We are blessed with a lot of choices to fit each individual's needs.

 

Right!!..so the bypass system Is the way to go?..what kind are you running?


The Gulf Coast?

 

I have used the FS2500 on both of my trucks. I got it primarily because of the ease of installation and the quality of the components. You do not have to waste time tracking down fittings, hoses, etc. Everything to mount the unit and have it up and running is included in the kit. Makes it a little more pricey than some others, but it saves a lot of time, and the parts are very good quality. They say to change out the filter every 10,000 miles, but I have managed to take the filter changes out to 20,000 miles, at least, with no decrease in filtering. Oil samples show the filter is doing a great job.

Now some with bypass filters will make wild claims about how many miles they go before an oil change. I am not into that. The most I feel comfortable going is 30,000 - 40,000 miles. That is just me. I have no desire to impress others with how I can take oil changes out to 100,000, 200,000 or whatever. For those that have that kind of a mindset, go for it.

The key is to research all the products and find what fits in your price range and does what you want. Get the best bang for your buck and peace of mind. All the the brands work fine and have their plusses and minuses. Like oils, the marketing folks for bypass filter units can really make some wild claims. Each one claims to filter better than the other brand. Face it, they all filter well enough. Your engine is not going to be able to tell the difference between 1 micron and 2 microns.

 

that's the way I would do it too..just want clean filtered oil..don't care about a million miles on a oil change..thanks so much

 

There is also molybdenum disulfide (moly) that is included free of charge in some oils like Schaeffer, Delvac Elite, etc that is one of the best friction reducers. Proven. No snake oil stuff.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly-basics/