Extra Pigtail for Spread

How about talking to a mechanic?

 

so you are saying you will be installing it yourself but don't know where to buy a pig tail?

this just frazzles my mind.

 

4 pin,top ground,right front axle,left rear axle,bottom aux.

 

your opening post followed by your response above are confusing. but what the hey, I'll try to help. first is your trailer already wired for a dump valve? if so, it may already have an extra plug recepticle on it. or it may just have a wire hanging under the deck near the 7 pin plug. if it has an extra plug, make sure it's a standard 7pin. if not, replace it with any standard 7pin plug(great dane puts a weird one on requiring you to buy the crazy high cost pig tail from them) , or pick up a couple 5 pin plugs and pig tail at any parts store,even autozone carries them.
run awire from your fuse box to a toggle switch in your dash, if you don't have a spare, install a cheap one. then run a wire from that toggle switch to the new plug you install on the back of the truck, install the other plug on the front of the trailer remember to hook up the wirein the same position as the one you put on the truck, plug new cord into both. tada, you are done, now flip the toggle on every tight turn to save your tires. I seriously can't fathom how someone could own a truck and not know how to do this type of basic thing.

optionally, put in an extra toggle switch, run an extra wire and hook up 4 flood lights on your icc bar. when swift/jb hunt/martin/scheider rides your ### refusing to dim his brights, flip that second toggle switch to return the favor

 

Driver if you're going to run your own pigtail off the truck think about redoing it as a 7 pin instead of a 4 pin. We have had problems with 4 pins operating lift axles and dump valves. If you insist on running your 4 pin instead of running a 7 pin off you should be able to pick up a prewired coiled 4 pin chord for about $30 at freightliner, KW, pete. Ect from their parts shop. Also a cheaper option is to go to the local RV store. They sometimes have prewired 4 wire chords that are straight and you can just put plugs on them. Not all trailers are wired up the same for the dump valve so wiring the truck could get to be tricky with where you need to put your power wire and your ground. We had a shop wire ours in, big mistake the chord was too long and fell out of the holder and caught the driveshaft one week. Ended up spending an hour an a half and some fuses trying to figure out which pin was wired in on the truck and which pin was the dump on the trailer. I'd run your wires along your frame rail on the inside, and depending on your WB you may have to mount the switch for the dump by the 5th wheel.

Mine is drilled through a plate on the front of my 5th wheel facing upward, collects water really bad and has shorted out on more than one occasion but I have no use for that plug anymore so I havn't bothered fixing it...yet. The chords that are premade that you can get at frieghtliner are short. Really short which is why my plug for the chord is mounted where it is I wouldn't recommend doing it like that due to the fact that I cannot move my 5th wheel all the way forward if I need to, and it collects water and has shorted out a couple times. You can have one wired up at just about any shop. For the first truck it cost about $400 in parts and labor. My truck turned out to be almost $1200 spent 8 hours in the shop as well talk about getting screwed I could've done it in the parking lot by myself faster than that. If you go to a shop have them estimate it should cost you around $500-600 max for them to wire one. And make sure you get somebody that's done it on your model of truck. Good luck

 

1200 dollars?! oh my freaking god. I got less than a hundred in mine. took an hour on a sunny afternoon.
I hope that guy kissed you, cause he sure did f$&k you.

 

1 wire dump valve can run off center wire of pigtail ck antilock power 1st