If it's an older trailer with manual slack adjusters, I would adjust all the brakes, tractor and trailer (has always been a drivers responsibility, until these mega carriers started hiring drivers with no mechanical knowledge.) 9/16" for manual and 3/8 or 7/16 for auto slacks. You don't need anyone to mash the brakes and I don't want anyone in the cab while I'm under a truck, a very long screwdriver or narrow prybar and run it thru the clevis and pull out to check for your proper travel, and "ALWAYS" keep em greased.
Trailer tires are smoking when braking hard and trailer is empty....
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by Pumpkin Oval Head, Oct 23, 2013.
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Hammer166, Pumpkin Oval Head, EZ Money and 2 others Thank this.
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Dead on there Puncher.....good advise!puncher Thanks this.
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Tanker trailer right so when you unload you drop the air in the back to lower the rear
how about making sure you re inflate those rear airbags before you drive off. This will generally stop your issue -
This milk trailer does not have a air release valve that I have found.....so that is not a problem. The problem is the brake adjustment.
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This happened empty, when a green light turned yellow and I had to stop for the red light. So it was a sudden stop and I was going the speed limit at the first light which was 55 mph and at the 2nd light it was 45 mph. The jake is so weak it would not have helped. The trailer is old, as it does not have ABS. I think the whole problem is the brake is set a little too tight. So I will have the company mechanic look at it, as I am not a mechanic. Although I have put on two cage bolts on trailer brakes when the air chamber pot blew a hole.
I have never had to adjust slack adjusters before, as the auto slack adjusters have worked fine on other trailers I have pulled. This trailer may not have automatic slack adjusters, but not sure what year those became popular.
The brakes themselves were not overheated....just the tires were producing smoke and making a black mark on the road.Last edited: Oct 24, 2013
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No ABS.
I do not know if autoslacks or not...it is an OLD trailer, but I do not know what year it was built. -
Good advice for an owner operator. Only qualified brake mechanics are allowed to work on brakes. He can inspect but not work on them if he has no training or experience with them. Regulation 396.25
It doesn't take a rocket scientist to do it if you want to tackle it if you are mechanically inclined. It's more getting dirty than anything else.
There should be a manufacturer tag on the nose of the trailer with the year and GVWR on it.
It's irrelevant. It sounds like the brakes are out of adjustment and your goal is to find a shop. Tell your dispatcher or trailer owner and he'll help with the decision of whether to route you back or find a TA or such.DoneYourWay and EZ Money Thank this. -
do tanks comes with air suspension?
i use a 14 mm instead of a 9/16 wrench. less chance of rounding out the head bolt adjuster.
most autos i've seen were 8mm or 5/16. not many 7/16.
i worked for a dirt hauler company. they'd take the autos off and replace with manuals. why is beyond me, considering the amount of lazy drivers.
most dirt hauler companies expect you to be able to adjust your own brakes. one company will actually check your brakes as you roll out the yard. you get written up if you don't. 3 times and your terminated. -
Also it may be the valve in the trailer, I have had those go bad before when they get full of crap and they will supply more air to one brake over another.
Given the age of the trailer I would not overlook this.Pumpkin Oval Head Thanks this. -
If your stomping the pedal down with a old trailer their gonna lock up. I've had it happen before, have them be backed off alittle more.
If you think I'm lying get your truck up about 3rd gear or so (fast enough you can do this) and keep applying steady pressure till you see the tires lock up. Non ABS means they'll lock up tighter than a #### if your not used to it.
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