Lost power to left headlight. 2008 prostar

Discussion in 'International Forum' started by flatbed22, Nov 18, 2013.

  1. flatbed22

    flatbed22 Light Load Member

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    Wesley Chapel, NC
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    What I have done so far. Not much because I don't know a lot about big trucks.

    I put a test light to the plug at the headlight and nothing. I do have other electrical issues such as; The over head sleeper light turns on by itself as of last night. I would turn it off at the bunk and it would turn back on in 5 minutes. After I turned on the red floor lights, the over head stayed off.
    After that I got up and turned on my headlights and the left worked again.....

    Today no power again. I traced the wiring back to the firewall I believe it goes to the fuse panel but, wires appeared to be ok. I checked the panel and I don't have a specific headlight breaker/fuse. But nothing was popped or burned.

    Questions
    Does anyone know what's wrong?
    Can I run a jumper wire from the other headlight with out hurting anything?
    Is there some type of electrical ecm?
    Am I crazy? lol don't answer that.
     
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  3. baha

    baha Road Train Member

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    did you say if the HI/LOW beam switch still worked?
     
  4. luvtotruck

    luvtotruck Road Train Member

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    Run the jumper from the R HL and it should work fine, those other issues I'm not sure about, I don't think there you be any issues with running the jumper over. I wish ya luck. Maybe in a few minutes there will be an electrical mechanic come in here and get you a few answers.

    Thanks.
     
  5. CondoCruiser

    CondoCruiser The Legend

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    Yes it does have a LCM and it's probably gone on the blink. Let me see if I can't find a schematic for it.
     
  6. CondoCruiser

    CondoCruiser The Legend

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    All I can find is there is a Body Control module. Actually a bunch of them feeding a central brain. They are designed like this today for easy diagnostics with a laptop. That's what I would do is find a good shop, preferably a dealer or you'll be spending money wildly on parts. Usually when a body module goes haywire you will experience multiple problems and weird problems. It could also be a bad wire harness shorting and confusing the control module.

    Both them headlights have to feed off the headlight relays as there is only one low beam and one high beam relay. It's possible the harness is bad between the head light and relay. That would be my next test point if you are going to try to troubleshoot it. On the low beam relay pin 85 is the wire that energizes the relay coming from the switch. Pin 87 is the main hot output to the headlights. They might use pin 87 and pin 87A to feed each headlight. Pin 30 is the main hot input from the battery. Key on, headlight on... see if you ain't got 12V at each of them pins. Stick your ground probe to chassis ground while checking. Then report back.
     
    flatbed22 and luvtotruck Thank this.
  7. flatbed22

    flatbed22 Light Load Member

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    yes I forgot t o say. yes it works
     
  8. flatbed22

    flatbed22 Light Load Member

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    Wesley Chapel, NC
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    I am experiencing other electrical issues as well. For example. Every 2 weeks or so when I start my truck it just clicks like a b a d starter. et Don't ask me how but I figured out that if I replace the transmission breaker. (I have an ultrashift) it starts right up.
    I will report back Thank you very much
     
  9. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Ok, for the record, Prostar headlights are controlled and powered by the body controller. There are NO fuses or relays. You cannot jump the right head light to power the left one. The body controller is programmed to put out a certain amp amount per circuit. With the headlights there is one output per light. The body controller measures the amp load on the circuit. If you simply tie in the left headlight to the right headlight circuit you are doubling the amp load which will trigger the body controller to sense an overload condition and kill the circuit. The left headlight power comes from the J2 connector at the body controller, location B, wire A53A 14 gauge yellow. This goes to the top big connector at the fire wall, location 2. Out of the firewall connector it turns to wire #M53A, 14 gauge yellow. From there it goes to the next connector which should be a 5 pin connector near the headlight pod under the hood. M53A should go to location 3 of that connector and come out as C53A. This harness is famous for rubbing on the underside of the hood, bumper and rad. Go along the loom from the headlight pod to the firewall and check for it rubbed through anywhere. Headlights are also a high current draw. Bad connections inside connector will cause the pins to melt and spread causing intermittent or no contact. Check all the connector terminals aswell.
     
  10. flatbed22

    flatbed22 Light Load Member

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    I've recently connected a new CB to that spot at the fire wall. It said it was a 200 amp bus. Did I create this?
     
  11. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    You tapped in your CB power at the Mega fuse? Is that what you mean? Radio power supply should always be taken away from electronics. The power supply to the body controller is connected at the Mega fuse. If your radio is back feeding any electrical noise it could be causing your problems. Disconnect the CB and see what happens.
     
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