I haul LTL and deliver local to shops and quarries and the like, so sometimes the load isn't very heavy, especially towards the end of my shift. If it's not too heavy I'll just use a bunch of winch straps. I use chains when it's over a certain weight or if the material has sharp edges that'll cut through straps (sometimes I just use cardboard corners).
Proper method to tensioning chain binders?
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by bp88, Nov 23, 2013.
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When tightening snap binders use the hook type winch bar. it can also be used to loosen snaps, as the 1 end is open and when the binder snaps open, it allows the handle to be released from the winch bar, thus not throwing bar or smacking you.
starmac Thanks this. -
Alright, I'll invest in a snap binder winch bar. I see them online for around $15 or so. Right now we just use the regular winch bars with the circular opening on the bottom.
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I remember reading the "directions" on a snap binder one time and the manufacturer said do NOT use a cheater bar to lock the binder, always use the binder without a cheater.
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Same here, was using snap binder on timbers and the center pin gave out (yes I was putting some serious meat to it), when she kicked up it swung so fast I barely saw it coming and shifted my head just enough it brushed my ear and cracked me friggin hard on the collarbone.....hurt for weeks!!
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The issue with cheater bars on anything is you can actually give yourself enough mechanical advantage to overpower the rating on the equipment. In other words its possible to be too tight and create a failure that might result in danger or injury to you or create an unsafe load when the equipment fails while moving.
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I cannot stress enough that those winch bars with the binder end are not the best to use. Why? Because if you have a snap binder, some have a ball on the end. They get caught in the "U" shaped end. That really sucks to try to get it off of the there. Use a winch bar with just a pipe-like end to slip over the binder. If that doesn't work, use a big enough piece of pipe to slip over the end of the winch bar that would normally go inside the winches on the side of the trailer.
I've been skateboarding for a whopping 3 years and have yet to get popped in the face, although one time while tightening I launched my winch bar over the trailer like a catapult.
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There's a few companies I know of that bans the use of the snap binders. You guys have talked about the most immediate danger with them. But another threat is actually where the hook attaches to the main body. After years of use and rust they can eventually pull out, and of course they'll pull out when you go to snap them shut. One local company (actually a utility) found that over half of flatbed related injuries were due to this, so they banned their use. Ratchet binders only.
One trick to see if your chains are tight enough, take your cheater bar and hit the chain. It should vibrate a bit. If it's dead it's loose.
As far as NOT using cheater bars, that's for ratchet binders not snap binders.not4hire Thanks this. -
Man this is a serious hate session on rachet binders. I personally say Rachets all the way. While you're Pissing around with 1/2 links. I'll be rolling down the road
ChevyCam and 7.3 cowboy Thank this. -
They make a special Winch Bar that has an end specifically designed for Lever or Snap Binders. Definitely get on of these. Snap Binders are as dangerous as they say they are and can hurt you or someone else really bad. Safety first.
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