Adjust valves now or wait?

To adjust the valves I have a 1/2 drive 9/16 socket welded into a cheap wrench. I have a 1/4 drive extension with a socket that fits the adjuster on it, the extention is from Craftsman and has the lock on it It is on a flex handle You put the socket on the lock nut and put the 1/4 drive threw the opening unlock the nut and adjust the valve. It takes no time to adjust the valves, and injectors, do them all as even as you can that is important to getting a smooth idle. When ever you do any job do it the best you can or leave it alone. I use a dial indicator to adjust the Jakes.
I have three wrenches for setting different engine. buying from a cheap tool store they are less than $10.00 each. Works for me!
Just a thought!

 

I would suggest u run the over head and reseal flywheel housing will save alot of time since its already out easy to do they tend to leak and rear mains leak after sitting 6 months or so

 

We just crank them with the starter if the system is right it will prime easily. The thing about priming it the way you are thinking is risk of contaminination a small hole is easily stopped up and flow will take the path of least resistance or to sump doing it that way. You should have pressure on the gauge in a few seconds of turning the eng with the starter, at that point your primed.

 

I use to prime the engine threw the oil feed for the turbo, we had a preasure oil feed system so I would put 36 litres in that way then use a bottle to lube the turbo assemble it and it was good to go. If you have rebuilt it you may have to add more oil. I also replaced the oil filters after a day or two of working.
Just a thought!

 

It will probably just crank long enough to get the fuel primed up alone that will be enough time to get some oil moving around.

 

For the fuel system I have a electric fuel pump, that I hook in at the fuel pump inlet and let it pump while I am working on the unit as soon as I have the fuel system completed. then I hook it to the pump outlet and let it run, I have an air tank I fill 1/2 full of fuel. The adapter I use on the fuel pump has an air coupling, I disconnect the electric pump and use 120 lbs air to flush the system, with fuel.
I do not believe in running any part dry, when planning and a little ingenuity the system is ready to go. 3 seconds and the unit has oil preasure and starts.
I also put the batterys on charge and before I bring it in I wash off the batteries, if corrosion I clean the connections, and I will independently charge each battery then leave then disconnected to check the voltage. the shop I worked at had one of those computerized battery tester, 10 seconds and you know their condition.
rebuilding an engine is preparation and doing the complete job so when the customer leaves he does not come back with a problem, If you burn out his starter, and it fails a week later he will not be happy, If the batteries are dead and the alternator fails because it overheated he will not be happy.
The little things make the difference between a Mechanic and a parts changer.
If you do a lot of Cats especially the little air tank full of fuel, as a primer is great. Most every engine that has a compucheck fitting, if the unit is run out of fuel 30 seconds and it is ready to go.
Just a thought!

 

You are right about a mechanic, a technician, and a parts changer. I have built a lot of engines never had one fail, but when working on a unit failure anayalsis is a big part of the equation so it doesn't happen again. We all learn every day if we ever stop we are done. Contamination is the biggest cause of come backs along with not following proper procedure in the repair industry.