Rebuilding transmission at 850k miles, preventive plus or potential waste of $?

Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by RogueX, Jan 7, 2014.

  1. RogueX

    RogueX Light Load Member

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    Yeah I'm thinking that putting a completely different tranny in would be way too expensive and cumbersome. Probably all kinds of other parts to change, plus ecm reprogramming or replacing, who knows. I was quoted $3600 parts and labor for drop, rebuild, reinstall + $750 for a brand new clutch. I'll just start with having them inspect everything they can without dropping it, then go from there.
     
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  3. terryt

    terryt Heavy Load Member

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    You can have your trans bench dyno. Had mine done this way during clutch replacement at 650000 mile they found front input bearing bad but said the trans 13spd was in good shape and needs no other repairs. Would try to take your truck to trans rebuild shop to do this work so it is done right.
     
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  4. RogueX

    RogueX Light Load Member

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    Thank you, I'll bet the shop I've had in mind this whole time has a dyno. They are drivetrain specialists, Eaton Fuller authorized rebuilds, etc..
     
  5. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    That doesn't sound like a bad deal to have it bench tested. I have never been a fan of fixing what isn't broke I have seen it bite a guy in the butt. Tech could of had a bad day and what is a very simple snap ring starts a fight between he and the trans he is working on. After a hard fought battle he gets it. But is it Got? Or what in the wiggle and jiggle of things didn't seat perfectly and he misses a preload. I guess I'm saying even the very best have an off day. I might wait till I had clutch trouble so it has to come out already. Its kinda rare for a vibration to come out of a transmission. Although possible. I am not a huge fan of swapping to different set-ups always requires more than planned.

    Yea I drive an old Pete and wouldn't have anything else for me. Not for every one. Swapping things they don't understand instead of learning the new technology is the fix for most. I say man built it he can fix it.
     
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  6. terryt

    terryt Heavy Load Member

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    vibrations that i had was the springs in the clutch plate gave out. The clutch was still like new just that the springs gave out. When they pulled the auto slack adjuster off the bell housing the spring pieces fell out. Which is the reason some time it would not disengage. Good luck on your repair.
     
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  7. RogueX

    RogueX Light Load Member

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    Indianapolis, IN
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    Turns out my leveling valve was bad...again. Big bad vibrations in 8th are gone, no more rattling from the bell housing either. But uphill or in major wind fully loaded she just feels like she's about to give up...so #### loud, I can feel the stress she is taking, losing power. Just feels like she is about to die on me any time now. All I need is her toholdTutogether one more year! Hehe...
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2014
  8. Hardlyevr

    Hardlyevr Road Train Member

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    I'd say it is time to closely look at your fuel system. I'm sure your filters are probably in good shape, but you might have some soft fuel lines that are collapsing under high suction conditions, starving your engine.
     
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  9. RogueX

    RogueX Light Load Member

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    EGR #2 gave a high voltage code this week....the above symptoms I have mentioned are included in the diagnosis of EGR failure...I asked them to look at the injector cups while in there..(I know they are not related but I figured I would ask...as long as she is in the shop...right?) Even the service manager thought that was a waste...shocked the hell out of me, this shop is usually trying to get every penny possible out of o/o's. $1293 EGR #2 r&r... liking my local Volvo shop a bit more lately
     
  10. RogueX

    RogueX Light Load Member

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    Indianapolis, IN
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    Just an update, egr #2 replaced. Mileage still crap, but that is my fault. However I do think I have regained some, not much, but some power. Was thinking of blow-by, seeing as how the unit has almost 850k on her now. But a laboratory oil analysis showed not only is she all good, but lowwww normal readings! :biggrin_2559: NO fuel in the oil, nothing abnormal, not even close, at a 25,200k PM.

    Not my usual interval, but I would rather go over by 1k or so to get her home to my regular place. All drivetrain fluids were good, clean, and full... Aside from the transmission, it's not losing any fluid, just burning it up they say.

    So, now my question still is, how can I get some of her old power back? Only a 12 liter I know, but I gotta believe there is more there. I know she has gone downhill since I bought her at 594k. I am still considering proactively rebuilding the transmission. What about exhaust? I know nothing about diesels when it comes to that. Does the stack get clogged up like a catalytic converter on a 4 wheeler with high mileage and choke it? Any other advice friends?
     
  11. sbaumann14

    sbaumann14 Road Train Member

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    exhaust wont do you much good. there is a restrictor plate located IN your exhaust pipe, right behind the turbo. do a search on it here. remove. also, when was the last time you had an overhead done?
     
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