Before the fancy colored buttons we had a chrome shift knob with 1 button, marked LO/Intermediate/Direct on these style trans. Drove one in a 70's International, always worked good.
shifting a 15
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by rank, Apr 4, 2014.
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That's what I've found too. The syncros must be shot on my 13 because it takes longer to split than it does to lever into a different hole. Often I will float from hole to hole but clutch when I split. No problems like that with a 15 or 10.
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You couldn't give me one basically useless.that being said they are very easy to shift and hard to mess up on
Last edited: Apr 4, 2014
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I drove a 91' Pete 379 with that box in it. It was the smoothest gear jammer I ever drove. The shifts floated right in the pocket as long as the RPMs were good for it.
When I first drove it the guy I met with explained it was just like a 5 speed in a car. Just switch the 4th and 5th gear slots and your rolling. Like everybody said, the 5th and 10th are the top right hole going toward the dash. Never use the low reduction 5 gears unless your HH or offroad. Piece of cake and once you learn to float it and use the Jake brake you'll be making music.jdchet Thanks this. -
I bought a 1980 Freightliner with a 15 speed 4.10 rears on 11r 24.5 rubber. Took me a couple upshifts to figure out 4&5 were flipped in this truck. It appears that when using deep reduction, (which is much needed when loaded, due to the very high first gear) that 2nd Deep is slightly slower than 1st gear, same with 3rd Deep is slightly slower than 2nd gear and so on.
It's a nice transmission because it's so tight, but Would much prefer a 13 or 18 in the truck. -
Yeah it seems like they designed the deep ratios so that in order to come out of deep and into low, all you need to do is flip the blue button.....no stick movement required. Probably designed for soft ground/steep hills where you need a quick shift.
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