Red flashing lights mean active faults, yellow mean inactive.
If the sensor wire plug has a jumper wire connecting the two ends of the plug to complete the loop then your fine, but if the wire plug doesn't have a jumper wire at the end then that's your engine code because the wiring isn't completing the loop therefore it thinks there is no coolant
STOP ENGINE light. N14 Celect. Most common causes?
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Deezl Smoke, May 8, 2014.
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It does have the jumper cap between the two wires. So that sounds good, it was removed proper.
I'll try the diagnose switch later today.
I've heard of the engine position sensor, but know nothing about it. Where is it on the engine? The tachometer does not work. The previous owner said it had not worked for years. All other gauges seem to work when it runs. -
Engine position sensor is between the top of the oil pump and the block, under the air compressor. It has a flat four wire plug. If it's been replaced usually the sensor wires will be white black red and green. It takes a special socket to remove and install.
I had one a few years ago that would not start unless it was ethered and wouldn't idle under 11/1200 rpm. They will do odd things. -
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Plug is right at the sensor maybe 4/5" of wire. The plug is above or near the front of the power steering pump
HopeOverMope Thanks this. -
Thanks. I will look for that sensor this morning and see if it is just unhooked or what.
I tried the diagnose switch. It does turn on the stop engine light, but it does not blink. No other lights other than the low brake air come on when using the diagnose switch. But after unhooking the batteries and then putting the cables back on, it has been starting ok. I let it run with the idle bumped up two times yesturday for about 15 minutes each, and it did not die. I am hoping that this position sensor was just unhooked by someone and not reattached.
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The three critical errors stop the engine but reset after the problem is corrected.
The engine position sensor cannot be disconnected and have the engine run. The Celect is a primitive ECM but it won't fire the injectors without the timing signals.
If you were having position sensor problems you would have both 115 and 121 codes and maybe a 111 code.
More than likely what happened is the wiring where the low coolant sensor was bypassed has a problem and wiggling it made the connection.
The longer term solution is to spend the 20 bucks and five minutes to fix it correctly.
Also, there should be a fused cable going directly from the batteries to the ECM. Removing the fuse will reset the ECM without disconnecting and reconnecting the cables. -
There is on the same harness, a single wire with a female round bullet connection, next to the low coolant wire. What might that wire go to? -
If you unhooked the battery, you reset the codes. So now you won't have any until you drive it for a bit.... Checking wiring for things that don't make sense will be a headache, my n14 had a few wires that just seemed to sit there and be for nothing..... Take it for a drive and see if you can get the code back.
As was stated it can't hurt to buy a new coolant level sensor and pop it in. For the couple bucks it costs, may as well do it. -
Engine position sensor will fail with out logging a code. I have had this happen several times. If you have access to an ohm meter I would run it until it shuts down then test it.
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