6nz liner protrusion

I would not trust the old gasket specs. Be your own judge on new one. If you have a cat shop nearby they will loan the height tool but will charge you a crazy deposit unless you have an account. It don't take much to be an expensive problem down the road. I used to drop the liners and bolt the head down just eyeballing on my own trucks before I knew any better.

 

NO! use the new one with the new tin gasket that goes under it. make sure you bolt down the liner and plate with shorter bolts with soft washers at 50 ft. lbs. on four points per liner before you check. another thing to check is the new spacerplate thickness at various points to make sure it is correct. cat is having issues with uniform thickness with the new spacerplates. check the protrution at four points per liner to see if level. I like a protrution of .005 some say go to .006 but if you have an imperfect block deck it may start to seep oil after some time because of the higher protrution. cat does have a spray tack you can spray on the tin gasket before installation(both sides of tin gasket). but be very light with it when you spray it on.

 

Youngun's, youngun's, youngun's, spec the deck height for a tolarence from zero when your liners are out. The liner height of all consequential matched liners is tolerant specific, as well as the bottom spacer gasket, as well as the spacer plate. You have a choice of .003 for the plate. Do the math. You want a minimum crush of .003 and top high end maximum of .007. The oil feeds are o-ring sealed and the returns are in the gasket crush on mehanicals and silicone sealed in the gasket for the later models.

 

yes doing the math is great with a perfect block and spacerplate and liners. but nothing is ever perfect. rather do each and every liner to be absolutely sure than hoping the math is correct. never ever go over .006 on liner protrution on a cat unless you want to take a chance of liner sheer.

 

Do you think Cat does that procedure on every engine? Nope. The deck height is speced to begin with, that's what I'm saying. If you're using a Cat Classic spacer plate, it's made In China. I seriously doubt the Chinese care about a .001 or two. The big time 6nz horsepower people want a perfected .007 crush. Anyhow, if your deck height is an absolute flush zero, you can still mic each hole, gasket, spacer plate, liner protrusion individually and do the math. If you're using parts that fail tolerances that miserably, you need to swap manufacturers.

 

confusing post. basicly your saying the samething I suggested, but an engine that is being overhauled ,will have (deck wear) so that is why it is a very good idea to check each liner protrution. swap mfg.s that would be nice but cat parts have really went down the drain in quality the last few years. that is why it is a good idea to check and recheck when spending thousands of $$$. I have done the so called math before like you suggested before. then checked each hole. guess what? had to do counter bore cuts to get in spec. just measuring thickness and doing (the math) then slapping together is a shortcut I wont do. I would rather take the extra hour and be sure.

 

That's why you get the deck height correct to begin with. If you're not pulling liners, I can see your point. If your liners are out, correct the irregularities in deck height. If the foundation is correct, everything else is easy to add up. Bring on the Kent-Moore or Mira counterbore tooling and fix the foundation.