Repair Costs for O/O's Today (Parts & Labor)

OneDollar95 · May 1, 2008

550hpW900L said: ↑

Like i already told one guy, go drive for a company. You will get knocked on your ### fast!
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Yeah, I figured that...but don't know who'll give a brand new o/o with a brand new cdl loads either...otr or not.

Cummins_444 · May 1, 2008

OneDollar95 said: ↑

Yeah, I figured that...but don't know who'll give a brand new o/o with a brand new cdl loads either...otr or not.
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Brokers and shippers dont ask about your experience. You have to fax over you authority permit, insurance, and w-9. The broker faxes you a contract packet you fill out and fax back also then the broker faxes you a rate conformation sheet you sign and fax back.

englewoodcowboy · May 1, 2008

Cummins_444 said: ↑

The best rule of thumb is every time you put your truck in the repair shop your at least going to pay $500.00 if not more.

The cheapest thing at a repair shop is the oil change around $200.00 usually a little less.
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No kidding here... I was PTI my rig to leave this am and while I was checking the tire psi my dam cab airbag blew out. The local pete shop only had one so they put it on and ordered the second to replace when I get back through there next week....... wonder how much that bill is going to run me....

reeferdude · May 1, 2008

OneDollar95 said: ↑

Hey reeferdude, is it a good idea to get a reefer trailer instead of a dry van?
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Reefer trailer. Then you can go reefer if you want. Reefer trailers have about three inches of foam which account for about 70% of its strength. I don't know what the cost difference is, but I'm sure dry van would be considerably cheaper. It would also cost more to repair reefer trailer due to wreck damage.

OneDollar95 · May 1, 2008

englewoodcowboy said: ↑

No kidding here... I was PTI my rig to leave this am and while I was checking the tire psi my dam cab airbag blew out. The local pete shop only had one so they put it on and ordered the second to replace when I get back through there next week....... wonder how much that bill is going to run me....
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It seems to me that Peterbilt's are the Cadillacs of 18's, and my guess is, that the 387 specifically is not a classic remake like the 379, but an STS - sporty and advanced in technology. In cars, an airbag going out on a newer model Cadillac...isn't gonna be cheap.

MedicineMan · May 1, 2008

englewoodcowboy said: ↑

No kidding here... I was PTI my rig to leave this am and while I was checking the tire psi my dam cab airbag blew out. The local pete shop only had one so they put it on and ordered the second to replace when I get back through there next week....... wonder how much that bill is going to run me....
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Didn't you get a 30 day warrenty on that thing?

broncrider · May 1, 2008

my kind of warrenty

30 seconds or 30 feet.....which ever comes first

i really hope thats not the case but it IS my luck

OneDollar95 · May 4, 2008

Cummins_444 said: ↑

Brokers and shippers dont ask about your experience. You have to fax over you authority permit, insurance, and w-9. The broker faxes you a contract packet you fill out and fax back also then the broker faxes you a rate conformation sheet you sign and fax back.
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I'm gonna try to find brokers who can get me some work and then decide whether I should do a Schneider Year One thing or go straight to O/O.

Also C444, do you know what kind of standard fee brokers charge and also are fuel surcharges getting better with companies? Or are people still carrying at $1.55 per mile?!?! I did my math and I'm looking at $0.75 per mile in deisel at $4.15 a gallon.

jash369 · May 4, 2008

OneDollar95 said: ↑

I want to buy an International...wait, I need to buy an International at this point in time, from about '03 that has 600,000 miles just because that's in my budget. Detroit 60's seem to be a long lasting reliable motor similar to a Chevy 350 block, so I feel comfortable about that one.

quote]

Just wanted to add my few words..........

If you are starting out, and mind I can see you are researching things thoroughly It might benefit you for a number of reasons to drive as a company driver for someone for a short while before making that extent of a leap.

1. Buying any truck with 600k is very dangerous for repair reasons. The engine is the last thing that is the most expensive to repair/replace.( bearings, axles, diffs. blah blah)

2. Knowing what to expect out on the road is a whole nother experience to understand that no one can convey without the experience.

3. Learning what to look for to do and not to do after being connected to an investment of that nature. Whether financing or paying cash, what will be needed from you to produce the necessary revenue to cover expenses and profits that you will be comfortable with. (on the road)

Please do not think I am trying to dicourage you. I have known a number of people who have made investments, research and extensive planning but have failed or gotten themselves into trouble because of the unexpected. The people here have all given excellent advice to continue on your journey, take it all to heart. Thier is a lot of money to still be made in this industry and alot to be lost.

To sum my only main concern is the choice of truck/year/mileage
If at all wait until a larger down payment or purchase price for a newer less miles truck can be made possibly with some type of warranty. If not a large cash reserve. Because remember a break down while loaded costs you 3 times Penalty on time load, cost of repair, and time lost to get next load.

Just my thoughts.....................J
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Eskimo6804 · May 4, 2008

jash369 said: ↑

OneDollar95 said: ↑

I want to buy an International...wait, I need to buy an International at this point in time, from about '03 that has 600,000 miles just because that's in my budget. Detroit 60's seem to be a long lasting reliable motor similar to a Chevy 350 block, so I feel comfortable about that one.

quote]

Just wanted to add my few words..........

If you are starting out, and mind I can see you are researching things thoroughly It might benefit you for a number of reasons to drive as a company driver for someone for a short while before making that extent of a leap.

1. Buying any truck with 600k is very dangerous for repair reasons. The engine is the last thing that is the most expensive to repair/replace.( bearings, axles, diffs. blah blah)

2. Knowing what to expect out on the road is a whole nother experience to understand that no one can convey without the experience.

3. Learning what to look for to do and not to do after being connected to an investment of that nature. Whether financing or paying cash, what will be needed from you to produce the necessary revenue to cover expenses and profits that you will be comfortable with. (on the road)

Please do not think I am trying to dicourage you. I have known a number of people who have made investments, research and extensive planning but have failed or gotten themselves into trouble because of the unexpected. The people here have all given excellent advice to continue on your journey, take it all to heart. Thier is a lot of money to still be made in this industry and alot to be lost.

To sum my only main concern is the choice of truck/year/mileage
If at all wait until a larger down payment or purchase price for a newer less miles truck can be made possibly with some type of warranty. If not a large cash reserve. Because remember a break down while loaded costs you 3 times Penalty on time load, cost of repair, and time lost to get next load.

Just my thoughts.....................J
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I agree totally that someone with no experience or cash reserves would be much safer to buy a newer truck. I cannot agree that in general that that is good advice.

2003 was the last year of the non-egr motors and thus the last of the highly efficient motors. The difference between an identically spec'd 2003 model year truck versus a truck from 2004 model year is 1.0 mpg. It took until the 2007 model year to get anywhere close to the efficiency of 2003 and prior trucks. Then they modified the motors again in the 2008 model year trucks and stepped backwards again.

600,000 miles is not all that many. Most trucks have 750k warranty on the tranny and rears so the only major issues is the motor. If one does his due dilligence in having the truck thoroughly inspected by a third party EXPERT, then they will be fine until they can rapidly build reserves for maintenance. The inspection process should include a oil sample, blow by test, dyno, chassis and suspension inspection, ecm report, etc... To properly inspect a truck may cost as much as $500, but if it saves you from buying a lemon, it is well worth it.

Like I said, if a guy has no mechanical ability or knowledge of trucks, then your advice is sound. If a guy is just going to go to a dealer and kick the tires and take a test drive when buying an older truck, he is playing russian roulette. But if he does it right, he will be fine.
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