CHAINING...are you ready?
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by otherhalftw, Oct 22, 2011.
Page 161 of 235
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Whatever works for you is great.
Torque is the vector cross product of force applied at the end of a moment arm around an axis. The longer the moment arm, the more torque you produce. Wrapping your fist around a t-handle at the axis of rotation will not produce more torque than having a grip at the end of an L-wrench.gokiddogo and otherhalftw Thank this. -
Its called a cheater bar.. a pipe as a handle extension.. a box end wrench will work too if long enough
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I've used both the T handles and the L handles. T handles are great, but sometimes the cam at the bottom of the tire is so close to the ground you can't turn the handle. Then a L handle is required. I keep both in the bungie bag that goes with me on the trip around the tires to tighten and bungie. The bungie bag stays in the side box until it's needed, no need to lose it in the snow while you're getting the chains wrapped and secured.
X-Country and otherhalftw Thank this. -
Obviously, you're not tipping enoughotherhalftw and Lepton1 Thank this.
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you cant get two hands securely on the L-shaped tool. the t-handle you can, and you have more leverage. and because you a longer cross section, you have a larger area of which to grab a hold of.
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/torque
Mechanics. something that produces or tends to produce torsion or rotation; the moment of a force or system of forces tending to cause rotation.
Torque is a measure of how much a force acting on an object causes that object to rotate.
so yes the T-handle tool will provide more torque. -
Wait til u see how much torque one gets with a cheater bar ..
then again you'll probably never try -
RKE
Rookies Know Everything!gokiddogo, Sik_Life, otherhalftw and 1 other person Thank this. -
You shouldn't need two hands. Just one. The L-Shape is the go to tool, I've had both, and perfer the L. The cams don't need that much torque.otherhalftw Thanks this.
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Haven't tipped a cow in decades!
*Now look what you made me do/say.....good thing she doesn't frequent this thread!*
If you would kindly go back to page 1 of this thread and watch the videos, you will see that with new chains and fresh tread, I stated that I probably wouldn't get the fourth cam closed, but I forced it. When I proceeded to undo the cams for the removal of the chain from the tire I had quite a bit of trouble getting the first cam to release. There was no need to close that fourth cam, the chain was sufficiently secure with three of the four closed. Chains do not need to be "squeezing" the tire. When you get decent resistance and a sort of "POP" closing a cam, that is sufficient. And, when attempting the last cam, if it is extremely difficult with one hand on your key, that is your clue that the chain is tight enough. On the other hand, if you do close the fourth cam, and you meet little or no resistance, you will need to undo all cams and bring your connection ends tighter, then go back and secure the cams.Hammer166, Lepton1 and joseph1135 Thank this.
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