Detroit 12.7 S60 Hard Starting

If the fuel pressure is good and oil pressure good.
It could be ecm kicking the bucket.
It was much more simpler without all this electronic stuff all over the engine now a days.
I wondering if any oil is getting to the main bearings.
Sounds like she is dieing or giving up, it is very sad to hear.

 

Had same kind of issues with my ddec3. There is a timing(?) sensor behind the air compressor that was going out. Think mine was caused by valve cover oil leak. Sensor reads off bull gear. only way code would show was cranking engine while hooked to computer

 

Most likely the SRS sensor..

Its the first sensor the system checks, TRS is the next one..

 

Had the same thing happen with my S60. Never used starting fluid but I did shut the fuel shut off valve off after each run and open it back up just before I wanted to start it the next day. The injectors were leaking down over night and sometimes in a few hours. Cut your fuel filters open and look for black snot (not algae) It is from combustion getting past the injectors and getting back into the fuel. New injectors solved the problem 900,000 miles when this happened

 

Began having this issue as well. It all began when the weather started reaching the high nineties. At first had to use the starting fluid, the last few times, the engine starts up for 3 seconds and begins to struggle to stay on, I have to be ready on the accelerator to keep it from shutting down. I had the fuel lines and pump replaced last year. My question is, if the srs and trs sensors are bad, how is it that these issues are only intermittent? Once a sensor is bad or burn out, its burned out and bad forever right? I would think the fuel lines are vaporizing , or not being pressurized correctly. anyone have suggestions on checking pressure prior to starting, or voltage to ecm prior to starting?

 

had a guy with same issue. He could crank on ether and it ran fine. until one day it would start and run and skip and run poorly. His bull gear bearing was starting to go out. Ended up replacing the gear and sensors and runs fine now. The sensors get covered in metal shavings and prevented good reading. Ether can give it that extra kick to speed it up enough to.knock those shavings out of the way. He ran it long enough that the gear actually damaged the sensors. I would check bull gear. Pull off accessory drive and see if it has to much wiggle. You can find posts on checking bill gear.

 

I would think it would be the injector cups gone bad allowing the combustion to bypass injectors?

 

Still could be many variables..

Easy to eliminate the SRS/TRS, just have a DDR/DDDL plugged in and crank it.. that will tell you..

If they're ok.. fuel return valve (aftermarket $40, DD its $140 ish)
Or could be injectors also as poster above said..