How to stop car bounce when using tire strap

I've had to do this on a few, just get the smaller straps with the smaller hooks, you're just pulling it down so it doesn't bounce. Just be careful if it has air suspension, either turn it off or don't pull down on it. I know of one hauler who pulled down on a Bentley, blew out all 4 air shocks/springs and burnt up the compressor, that was a $10,000 mistake.

 

I learn something every day and hope to learn from this as well. I guess I don't have enough info to completely understand how it happened to try and figure out why it happened. I take a picture of any difficult load and later analyze it on my IPad to try and find a better way of loading that same load the next time. It's amazing how much easier it is to adjust that load when you are on the couch looking at it after the fact.

 

You may already know this but with straps I have been taught to basically to add one inch to your spacing than you allow when chaining.

 

Just a heads up, we had a similar exp. with our 8 car, later found out it wasn't the car bouncing up as much as it was the upper deck flexing down with a heavy vehicle on it, don't know if that is possible in your case, but it is what happened to us.

 

For our 10 car straps, the guys made up some short straps to hook to the frame. They just a use a regular chain cluster with no chain. Hook the strap hook through the ring and use the correct hook for the frame. The bottom car right in from the the wheels seems to be the biggest problem child.

 

Ha! It is the or so part we all negotiate every day.

Have 3 F 150 crew 4wd's on now & with an suv/car below them. Would not be at 13'6 w/o chains.
Miller trailer on 22.5's.

The 19.5's are great for gaining you another 1.5" clearance. But run much hotter, brakes are double the cost at replacement time. In addition to still being difficult to find a tire on the road if you needed one.

 

Well you can't come out of Detroit high or you will have a convertible F-150 . As far as them running hotter, you may be right but most of the large fleets are running them and I haven't set one on fire goIng down Mt. Eagle yet. I have blown a few but normally haven't waited much longer than for a 22.5. I tried to get 19.5 on a new Pete I just ordered but could only get a low profile 22.5. It is 1.25 taller than the 19.5. I still would have preferred the 19.5 even with me paying the bills.

 

Am not arguing with you, just pointing out there are trade offs. Each buyer has to figure out what is worth the money & fits their own operation.
A few years ago you could not find a high mount 7/8/9 trailer(or stinger trailer) with 22.5's. They all had 19.5's.
In 2013/2014 all the mfg's & dealers started stocking 22.5's on all trailers(except the northeast) & if you wanted 19.5's, they were special order. East Coast truck 'n trailer specs the taller heavier 19.5 that Cottrell sells. Cannot remember the specific size, but the overall diameter it is different than the standard 19.5 when running the specs on Michelin's site.

There is a guy that was buying 3 high mount trailers every 4 years. He swore that the 22.5's had better braking. Noting they run cooler, larger drum etc. Have had both now & the main difference I can tell is heat. But if you also read Cottrell's site they note that the wheel housing is taller for the 22.5. So the loading angle is slightly different too. You probably know this, but something to note for those that do not.