How to stop car bounce when using tire strap

I didn't think you were arguing, but explaining your experiences as I am. This is the main reason I come to the forums to try and learn from others experiences. I have found what has worked well for me in certain difficut loads and what has not worked so well and I am constantly sharing these ideas with coworkers and friends. I guess one of the reasons I enjoy carhaul so well is that I am constantly using my brain to try to perfect what I am doing or figure out a totally different way with the help of others. I am going back to being an owner operator after a 20+ year stint driving company rigs and have recently ordered a new rig. I originally planned on 19.5's all the way around exactly like the company rig I operate which works great, but after talking to others and looking at rigs similar to what I planned I decided to go with a 295/60R22.5 on the steers so I could take full advantage of the larger 14,600 front axle on the new rig. I found 19.5 tires that woud have got very near 14,000 or so, which may have worked, but I may as well be able to use the entire 14,600 if needed. The drives and trailer will all be 255/70R22.5 so I can rotate tires around better. I can hopefully get that 1.25" back when needed by learning my new rig and loading smarter with help from others with similar loads and equipment. Thankfully one of my best friends has a rig very similar to what I am going to and I get to pick his brain about how and why he does some things.

 

From what I've seen with the newer trucks we have, the extra weight of all the def and dpf equipment makes the 295's almost mandatory, especially if you ever plan on putting SUVs in #1. I put 10 Camry/Corollas on the first one we bought a couple years ago, and couldn't believe that it was almost 14K on the steers. Height isn't a real issue for us around here, so a lot of times smaller SUVs are left out of the pockets on #1 to keep the weight back a bit, and they're still under 14'.

If anything, the trucks with the 295's actually have to take more care not to overload the steer than the older trucks with the lower capacity front ends. But hey, we're saving the planet!

 

I am building a Glider so I don't have that extra weight from the newer emmisions devices to deal with, but I still wanted the 14,600 front axle. I know the new Cooper rigs out of Bowlingreen Ky had to go with a single drive axle to continue to haul 11 and not be over gross.

 

For a period a few years ago Allied and or Cooper was burning one every week or so.

 

We once had a maintenance director that decided 19.5"s were the way to go. Biggest pain in the Hiney. Nobody stocked them. We had to bank tires in every region we ran.
Not worth it in my opinion.

 

In my experience they are readily available now. At least when I needed one they were, but I can't speak for others experiences. But it would save time to carry a spare when possible.

 

We had 600+ stinger transports. That's a lot of spares.

 

Say what? I'm from Bowling Green and I've never seen a stinger with a single drive? Seems like that would be over 20k lbs real easy

 

He means a single drive with a "tag" axle as they use to call it. Only one of the drive axles actually powers the truck the other is like your front axle is.