painting

Your tax man sounds as dumb as the mechanic... stuff might be a write-off, but spending $1000 to save $300 is just plain crazy. I'd rather pay some taxes and put the money in my pocket!

 

here is a tailgate i shot for one of my pickups today. not very good picture quality but shot right out of the gun almost dead flat almost no orange peel (less than whats on the factory paint) couple little dirt nibs cause i don't have a spray booth but ill probably never touch sand paper to this. if it was a classic car id cut it and buff it but it wouldn't take long at all.


in another post you were recommend fluid tips. ill just list what works for me i also always shoot base clear. i just prefer it over single stage. but these are my preferred fluid tips.

sealer primer 1.6
filler primers 1.8
base coats 1.4
clears 1.3

also another thing i didn't notice brought up was planning your paint job. painting a large panel where you cant reach the entire panel say a hood or a roof. start from the edge push your paint half way across go around pick up your wet edge and drag it back to you. on a allover hop scotch your way around so your always picking up a wet edge. you have plenty of time as long as you plan it out right

 

Hey Ridindirty, I'm fixing to possibly shoot this truck with a fine metallic urethane myself and I could use some more advice... keep in mind I've shot it before in a medium brown metallic, but that was about 11 years ago... My email is trehusbob@gmail.com, email me your phone number if you could brother. Bob

 

I have never figured how to spray a non base coat metallic that will be wet sanded and wheeled out. The wheeling out will burn metallic.

 

Urethane can be tricky to shoot... It's all about getting it to flow... As Ridindirty has explained... Metallics are even harder because of the overlapping needed to keep working wet to avoid the striping effect... If done right... You'll never wet sand or buff... Urethane is a very durable finish and has a very nice gloss when cured. It also lays out straight if shot right... I like it over base clear especially in an area like I live in West Texas where the sun will bake a base clear to a very short life span as the $600 paint job I paid for on my $900 good hood fiberglass 442 scooped hood (black/clear). Urethane will not do that from all the jobs I seen it shot on. Shoot it wetter than a base and heavier, keep it flowing... Bob

 

My ride. The blue is base clear and cream is urethane. I am also into old cars and urethane will out shine a base clear.

 

Nothing like a Seminole scheme on a 359.

 

Brother, that's real nice... I love the old school factory scheme... Real nice... I don't need to tell you how to shoot for sure... I'd be real proud of that ride brother. Thanks for the old school eye candy. I'm using a light silver with a double angle over the and bunk med blue stripe scheme... Haven't figured out the breaker stripe color yet, I'm entertaining dark silver, or charcoal... The bunk is a double eagle 110", which I'm gutting as we speak... Pulling all that dark red 80s out, insulation, floor, shelves, drawers, and reconfiguring to a convertible booth/bed on the right side forward. Walk out door behind that. Upper bunk out, doored shelf along the top rear about 16" drop, short bed to the left of the walk out. Fresh tank under that, shower forward on the left side, has the gray tank built into the base with the sink and counter forward of that all light vinyl panel like the new campers w/gray accent and trim.

 

That's all class. Old school all the way, I too love the Seminole