NO START 2010 MAXXFORCE DT

You mean how IH investigated and confirm that Advance EGR would NOT work when the Fisher Price 13 was still in the design stage. But yet fired senior engineers that told IH it would not work, hired green wantabes and produced and sold it destroying many trucking firms. Not to mention the destroyed reputation of dealers and senior techs. A lot of people are waiting for that IKnow article.

 

I have a 2010 international maxxforce 4300 tow truck flatbed. Last week I went on a tow while in freeway the oil pressure gage dropped to 0. Warn engine alert came on. Truck engine never changed ran great,pulled over checked oil everything ok. I drove it over 200 miles no problems besides the oil pressure gage on 0 n the warm engine alert on dash. Help plz been trying 2 replace oil pressure senser but don't know where is located any suggestions? Greatly appreciate it,haven't been able 2 work because I'm trying 2 figure out problem.

 

I replied to your other post.

 

Heavy d could you give me some advice please. I have a2008 international 4300 with DT maxxforce. Have a stalled, good crank but no start. Spn146 pmi1 injection control pressure sensor. What order to I check things. Has been running rough on cold start for 2 years. Once warm runs smooth for most part with an occasional lope here and there. Can that sensor alone cause a no start? Ipr pig tail has been replaced from a no start in the past. What's your thoughts.

 

There is no 146-1 code, but there is 164-1 for ICP unable to build at crank. At this point you need to do ICP pressure check to see if you have any major high pressure oil leaks under the rocker cover. Usually the high pressure oil adapters between the high pressure rail and injectors start to leak oil. This means the oil just spills back into the crankcase and the system can't build enough pressure to fire the injectors.

 

When truck warms up ya shut it off wont start already replaced icp sen

 

How about after it runs and gets warm shut it off then it trips code wont start then let it set tell it cool fire up no problem

 

Usually a high pressure leak under the valve cover, split oring on injector adaptor. Cold engine oil is thick enough to build pressure to start and run, but once hot it is too thin to start or keep running. If you are getting icp fails to build during crank, this is usually what it is.

 

to BarrettL82 & HeavyD,

I'm a noob to medium duty truck repair, but I'm a light vehicle mechanic, gasoline engines so I hope I can follow some direction. I recently started a towing company, bought a truck from AAA with a ton of miles to get me started which immediately broke down...

She's a 2010 International Forcemaxx 4300se, 7.6 liter l6 GDT 225 configuration, with a 21.5' rollback bed on it, very high mileage, like 468,000...

She starts up nice occasionally, other times she struggles to rev between 1,000 and 1,400 RPM, like she's starving of fuel. As she warms up there is a sweet spot between normal operating temperature and cold where she runs like a champ, then as she gets hot, she hesitates off the line, foot to the floor she chugs, then takes off like a bat out of hell.

Randomly during low engine load, when cruising at lower speeds, anywhere under 55 MPH, she dumps fuel and starts to pour un-burnt fuel out of the exhaust, prolly wrecking my DPF, and begins to basically run too rich, she'll lose speed, till I mash the throttle at this point it really dumps smoke, to the point people pull up along side me and tell me my truck is on fire, or they back WAYYY off so that they can see.

I read this thread and I suspect I have an oil pressure related fuel delivery problem, I see the dash indicator between 20 PSI and 60 PSI when I'm driving, but I haven't really stared at it, because 25,500 lbs of steel rolling down the road. She codes up and pops a bunch of MIL's when she starts running rough, then the next morning when she's cold she'll either code up immediately and run like ####, or start like a boss, then after 5-10 minutes of driving she'll code up and run like #### again.

Last night she wouldn't take off from a stop on a 2% grade unloaded with my foot to the floor, she chugged hard, then took off eventually. I took her off the road after that.

I have a friend dropping by to scan her for me tonight, if I find any codes I'll post again.

 

I'd be prepared to replace all 6 injectors and install 6 new oil adaptor pucks. Turbo de-coking is also probably needed, but we'll know more when you pull the codes from it. I recommend to record the codes, clear them, and road test again to see what is currently getting logged too.