First of all, new user. Hello everyone.
Looking to install an EasyJake switch on my shifter. According to the instructions that came with it, I have to look for the "switched hot line", but I dont have one according to my test light. I tried putting the switch in line with the 'constant-hot' wire, but that didn't work. Just wondering if anyone knows which wire I need to tap into. There are 7 wires on the main on/off switch, one of which is constant-hot. There is one wire that goes from 1.7v when off to 0v when on.
It's on a 2011 4900FA. Thanks for your time fellas.
Western Star jake wiring
Discussion in 'Western Star Forum' started by R3verend, May 26, 2016.
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Give us a picture of the wire side of the plug that goes on the on/off jake switch.
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Hey Cetane+ thanks for the reply. This is the back of the on/off switch. The grey wire is the constant-hot. There is an unused stud that switches hot, but putting power to it doesn't change how the jakes engage, meaning - the dash switch still needs to be on and the add-on switch does nothing, except it turns on the little light.
Attached Files:
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Connecting AUX Switches
So, it looks like the grey does nothing. Get your test meter and see if the circuit flows through from black to red when the switch is turned "on". OR, try leaving it unplugged, go for a ride. Get a short wire with the ends stripped, and connect the black and red to see if the jake activates like normal. -
Well I mean the grey does nothing for you. It does make the switch light up when switched on. The other two wires are probably just completing a circuit to tell the ECM to enable Jake operations. So they dont really need any measureable voltage or current that you can read to work properly.
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According to the meter, I get roughly 1.5v from red to black when switched off, then goes to 0 when switched on. I tried the jumper wire from red to black when unplugged, as well as a couple other combinations, but they didn't engage.
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Do not try other combinations! You do not want to put hot 12 volts to your ECM Jake feed.
Guy, are you testing continuity or just volts? It goes to zero because it closes the circuit (completes the loop) back to the ECM to tell it to enable Jake. If you look at the switch diagram in the link, that grey wire connects to nothing nowhere, on or off. So that means that the black and red are the active wires. Now the jake will not work until your engine is above 1000 and has more than 1-2 seconds of duration to engage the solenoids. So you would need to be rollin down hill with your foot off the throttle and crossin the black and red for 4-5 seconds.Dave_in_AZ and R3verend Thank this. -
Sorry, it does work, jumping those 2 wires. When I tested it before, the truck wasn't up to temp. It doesn't let me use cruise either until it's right hot. Also, I think my brain was getting hung up on the concept of "providing power to something" in order to make it work, instead of just closing a low-voltage loop. Only thing is, the light on the add-on switch doesn't light up. Small potatoes though. It would look good with the other red lights going into it. The main goal was to be able to switch the jakes on & off without taking my eyes off the road. And to keep me from looking like an idiot when that dd15 throws me against the door when I forget to turn them off. I went from a 93 T800 to this truck, still getting used to the electronic throttle.
Dave_in_AZ Thanks this. -
I don't mean to sound like a dick when I post, but I do know what I do talk about. I would recommend a spring loaded hold down switch for the shifter. You could still get the light to work if you set up the shifter switch through a relay. Good luck
R3verend Thanks this. -
Thanks for your help brother.
Cetane+ Thanks this.
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