3406c rebuild information

The c model has wider rods than a b model. And two piece steel top Pistons. It will take more power and abuse. Dump the peec pump. And put a mechanical pump on it. Put an e model turbo. Set the pump timing to half a hole. Back the screws off about three turns. Run it, if the pyro stays low you can turn em a little more. Make sure you turn them the same amount though.

 

What mechanical pump? Half hole which way advanced or retarded. Is this half hole the same for all mechanical pumps?

I know these answers but loose advice like this burns up engines. I realize you probably had one or two you set as such and ran great but not all B's or C's are the same. There are so many different arrangements it will make your head spin.

 

It's not the same but an E crank will go in a C or B. So will a C 15. Just way more mods to go with it. Just as a rule if you go later crank use the entire rotating assembly.

 

A C model does not necessarily have wide rods either. As a rule if it has 12 point head bolts it does. I won't argue wide rods are stronger but I have never melted a B down.

 

Half a hole advance. You will want the pump off of an early b. 7fb's had the best pump. I'm not sure of the pump number. I'd have to go look on mine. There, hope that clears things up some.

 

I've never broke a crank, but did crack 5 Pistons once. That's why I know you don't want too much advance

 

Ok so a 24 degree pump cam or 21 degree pump cam. Was there an 18 too?

 

I wasnt saying your giving bad advice for your engine, only that without knowing what the op has and is gonna use giving blanket advice like that is a recipe for disaster

 

I even know of a couple of b- models running around with an Acert crank and packs in them.