Engine brake

ive never used the spike outside of the parking lot.

i had a 40' container want to come around on a descent, give some throttle, kill the jake, add some brakes

ive had quad wagons want to come around on a descent (regular run 5 trips a day, for 4yrs...100% off road mine site 15% etc...mud and or ice), same thing, throttle, kill the jake add some brakes

its not gonna be a 5 mile stretch of slippery....youll hit a patch here and there, get thru that patch and regain.

youre essentially racing your trailer

same thing with jake lock, itll get quiet, then itll come back...take care of it while its still quiet and you wont blow the motor or jacknife or both....we lost a motor every yr to jake lock, 3 specific spots on the route

same with weight, empty or light load, possible slick conditions, switch the jake down

 

location?

 

This seems to be one of those things that isn't taught, or not taught very well. I recommend practicing bobtail on an iced over parking lot, with and without the IAD Lock engaged. Try giving the rpm's a little rev with and without it, feel the difference. Each truck reacts differently. Try it again when hooked to a trailer, nothing too extreme, just enough to feel the difference between how it reacts with and without the IAD Lock engaged.

When pulling a slick hill, don't floor it. Keep the throttle at or below 50% boost (if you have a boost gauge that tells you the psi boost on the turbo). That's about 50% horsepower or less. More than that and your drive axles may want to spin out. If you can watch your drive tires in your driver's side mirror while pulling a hill, focus on them and the moment they seem to want to spin EASE back on the throttle by a fee millimeters at a time. The trick is to apply enough power to keep the drive tires pulling without breaking traction.

Oftentimes I will top out on a hill below 1000 rpm. There's no damage to the engine or drive train because as I top out the boost, or horsepower, is well below 25% in order to keep the wheels from spinning.

 

If you push in the clutch, you're still in gear. I never said to throw it into neutral. I was just explaining the rationale for pushing in the clutch.

That said, while I have heard this advice many times, I have never actually done it because in the moment your heart is racing and stuff like that is unlikely to come to mind. What I have always done is steer toward the slide and keep my foot off of the pedals. That has worked well so far.

 

not sure i understand.

if he spun out, there is no momentum....he's stopped.

then he slid backwards cuz of lack of traction and pretzeled it up.

his problem was lack of momentum to get further up the climb and or lack of traction that he spun and slid.

 

Canada and a lot of north east USA. One winter driving under my belt

 

Could be he didn't have the IAD Lock engaged, so when he applied throttle going uphill he only had power to the right rear duals. Engage the IAD Lock. Don't apply too much throttle.

 

no, youre right, i read more into than what you actually typed.

the clutching DOES break the connection to allow you to save yourself

but also even just the clutching is gonna increase road speed vs your selected gear and engine speed, likely will need to upshift to get it back in there and then slow down from there

 

I guess I should have taken a picture. It was obvious even after he got stopped

 

I have been told to keep the RPMs down by upshifting, or by what you described.

You would recommend Traction Control off?