Cummins ISX Overhaul

I will say I like how "cleaner" the ISX looks compared to a C-15

 

This is a great post, tough to layout past mistakes for all too see but I'm sure there's new and semi new O/OP's gonna learn from it. Thanks @Kallin for posting.

A lot of good advice's been given, hope the next guy pays attention to it.
I'll add my 2bits here that saved me close to $20k a year ago last January.

I was a long way from home and had to get towed into a strange shop.
Motel'ed it till next morning.
I don't trust any of them, so as always,
I slip in back door to check out the truck before going to talk to the desk jockey.
Hoods up not much else. Hmm...
First red flag.
YOUNG desk jockey says this is broke, you need Crate engine or complete out of frame OHaul.
Really....hmm again.
Second red flag.
How can you tell that when there's nothing tore off engine?
Must have raised my voice to much cause guy w tie comes too counter and starts with the fast talk and smoke and mirror routine.
This is where you need to bow up and not let them push you around.
It's your money, your truck, and it's your future could be at stake here.
Ok sir, all I want you to do right now is pull oil filter, open it up an show me.
30mins later I'm looking at filter guts laying on mechanics bench, with the prettiest, shiniest metal shavings sprinkled on filter paper.
Right then I swear I felt my Dads knuckles hit the back of my head....
Something ain't right.
I tell "tie guy" button it back up I'm towing truck outta here. NOW!
I'll shorten this up, next shop laughed and shook their heads. Fixed original problem, off I go.
Still going strong today 65k miles later.
Not sure if there's a Moral of the story here.
But ask questions, make phone calls, post an SOS here.
Like the Op learned you can't always trust the shop.

 

That's a brutal lesson....

P.S. Cats no better..... :-/

 

Was given same advice couple decades ago. Open up oil filter.

What was the repair needed.

 

What was the repair needed.[/QUOTE]

Fuel pump plunger broke.
I got lucky. Mechanic said it usually does wipe out entire engine.
Replaced oil pump, checked mains and rods, opened up bypass filter, all looked good.
Bypass filter inside's didn't look anywhere near original shops display.
Rolled new mains and rod bearings in cause we were already there.
$7k repair vs original estimate of $30k
No issues since.
Tough call at the time but glad I made it.

 

Warranty manager here. Something doesn't add up, and I'm sorry to say that it's on the OPs side.

When you purchase the NOW warranty, you're provided a whole list of options. One of them is whether or not you want to replace the injectors. If you don't want to replace the injectors - they're not replaced.

This means the OP had to have told the dealership what was wanted - and either didn't believe it was necessary, didn't properly understand the situation, or has since forgotten.

Attached is the NOW certificate. It outlines the items that have to be inspected and replaced for coverage if they don't meet reuse. It also has the plan options, and the new/recon options.

You'll see that under new/recon, #1 is "Injectors".

Everyone is quick to blame Cummins and dealerships, but based on my inner knowledge of this - it's much more likely that the OP didn't fully understand the certificate. Cummins probably did explain the coverages - there's no reason they wouldn't have.

"Do you want to replace the injectors? It will add an additional X amount to the cost"

That's more money in their pockets. Do you really think they're going to NOT mention that?

More likely, the OP either decided not to replace the injectors because it was an additional cost and is now upset about it (happens more than you'd like to believe), the OP was confused and thought they understood what they were getting, or they simply didn't read through the paperwork.

Sorry this happened to you OP, but I have a hard time believing there was anything negligent done by the Cummins dealership. They stand to make more money by selling you the injector replacements.

 

I hate the "stealership" stories too. I want to give you the most reliable work I can. I want to replace as much as I can. Sorry, but this does = big bucks! But, at the end of the day, the repair is done with as much new/reman parts as I feel is necessary to keep your truck out of shop! I hate reusing old parts. I mean, it is apart, it is out of the engine, now is the time to replace it!

 

Same here Heavyd. Seems not many mechanics these days take pride in what they do. Guys hear about the money they can make in the trade and that's all they see. Those are the hacks we seem to read about in stories like these on here.

 

I must say, this topic, and others along this line of topics, has been a very interesting read.
As I am now in the same boat as some of the previous commentators.
My 2006 9400i,ISX is sitting at the local ITP&S awaiting confirmation as to what the hell is wrong with it.
Two weeks,and a couple of days ago I was driving to a shippers location early in the morning when I noticed that the oil pressure light came on, then the 'stop engine'light came on then went back off. My oil pressure had hit '0' just long enough for the bells and whistles to come on. I found a place to pull over and shut off the engine.Checked the oil stick ,after a couple of minutes to let oil flow back to the pan, only to find out it was below the stick. I had a quart left in the gallon jug and put it in. Found the closest place to get diesel oil and bought two. It took 1-1/2 gal. to get it back up to full.This is the first time in 8 years of owning this truck that it had ever got that far low, and I had just checked it at the previous fill-up two days prior.
Ever since then the oil pressure gauge had been going kind of crazy. I took it to my ITP shop to have it looked at and the tech told me he thought it might be the wiring to the sensor since the pressure was fine 'at that point'. The next day all was fine, but no loads. The next day I had to go get a load and it was fine in the morning. After I got loaded and was driving back the gauge went crazy again. Would go all the way up to 92 psi and all the way down to 0 psi. I have a 'ScanGauge' hooked into the J1 and had been tracking the oil pressure through that for the previous couple days. As soon as the pressure goes to 0 the red light comes on,it bounces back up to about 15 psi and goes back down to 0. At that point, I'm ready to pull off the road but the pressure goes back up to 36 psi and stabilizes. It was playing games like this afterwards so I discarded it as 'fake news' and went on.
Yesterday I took a load of roofing nails to a receiver in Jeff City, the oil pressure was fine the whole 147 miles there. I got back out on the highway,got up to speed and started hearing a 'ticking' sound. I pulled over and investigated. It wouldn't tick at normal idle, had to go up to 1400 rpm to hear it. Opened the hood and looked closely at pass. side and saw nothing out of place,but the ticking was pretty obvious. Sat there for about 20-30 min. knowing I had to make some sort of 'Big Boy' decision. I prayed for intervention and decided to move slowly forward with the planned idea that I might just make it back a little closer to KC, and proper help. I made it 33 miles and the 'ticking' intensified and sounded like it was now coming from the bottom-half of the engine. At 35.4 miles I was able to pull off from the two lane highway, and shut it off.
A $920.00 tow bill later she sits at my local ITP.
And here I am. I am trying to get an idea as to what is going to happen next when they get around to it come Tues.,or Wed. I understand that this is no minor undertaking and it is going to be costly no matter what. She has about 1.4 mil on the engine. I have only had the 'overhead' done, and that was a couple of years ago at Kenworth. Had I known that a simple oil change was $500.00 I would have just had the overhead. Anyway, My reading ,and impression I get from these postings is that I have to be proactive in every detail of what they are doing, and probably ask them to tear apart the oil filter first, and go from there.
What I don't know is how exactly to proceed from there. Should I let them tear the engine down to find the real problem, which is time consuming and costly, or do I go for the Reman engine from the start?
They replaced the EGR cooler,oil cooler,radiator,CAC and flushed everything out after I had a problem of having oil in the water and visa versa about a year ago. I trust these guys at ITP but don't want to spend $$$ needlessly. Any thoughts out there???

 

I replied to your message. I vote complete reman engine.