Starting 3406a after sitting for a decade in a farmers field

I like to pump oil into the oil galley under pressure on engines like that. The engine is prelubed before the starter ever turns it. Turn the turbo by hand while while oiling. Cranking a disabled engine and getting oil pressure is a good idea but 10 years is a long time.
Oil would need to be changed but if you are not prelubing I would not change the oil and filter. Remove the drain plug enough to make sure any water or coolant is removed and oil is at least at the low mark. Do like Hd said. If you change the oil and filter first it takes more time to prime the oil system. A good looking old girl like that with an alcohol evaporator likely has an LF750B Lubrifiner filter hide away somewhere. Make sure you change all the filters and oil.

 

I'm geting ready to do the same thing with a 4 cylinder that has been sitting at least 15 and will pull the injectors and get some marvel mystery oil or pb blaster on top of the cylinders in case any corrosion has started on top of the cylinders and maybe keep a ring from sticking. I would hate to spend the money on an oil change if you don't know its going to run. Maybe just drain and refill the oil filter and drain the oil and replace it with used or cheap.

 

I mean nothing wrong it just comes out that way from me typing some times. If you ask the question of how to pressurize the oil system you do not have the equipment and or knowledge to do that. No problem.
Do like Hd said and loosen all the injector lines, replace your fuel filters ( filled with fuel ). Spin the engine with the starter ( within reason ) until it has oil pressure on the gauge. Tighten the injector lines and start it.
Prelubing cylinders is a great idea but a pretty good job on an A model. If it turns over by hand you should be OK.
If you mess with the oil filter it takes more time to get oil pressure in the system.

 

Good find!! Hope all goes well with it. Keep us posted on how things go. I've been thinking of tackling a project like this also. I remember all the trucks my Dad used to bring home. All the old iron from when I was a kid in the 70's. They just don't build them like that anymore!!

 

Nice truck. Just put air in the tires, all good to go.
Looks better than quite a few trucks out on the road.
Good luck.

 

For sure, keep us posted. Love to see this make smoke again!!!

 

Almost looks like an old Western Distribution Truck out of Denver. Looks pretty good

 

Given the experience on my 359, you are going to want to go over both the electrical and air lines with a fine tooth comb. My electrical harness was a mess and had been bypassed in numerous places due to shorts and crumbling insulation. I have now replaced it all. Same thing with air lines. Some of them when removed were so brittle that you could snap them in half like a stick. The air line for the brakes snapped off when I tried to move it a bit. Dangerous. Do not depend on your air even if it seems to want to hold pressure. Check your air tanks for excessive rust. They can explode when they get to full pressure. Make sure your compressor governor kicks off the pressure prior to 125psi or you could be sitting on a bomb. The main tank is under the drivers seat prior to being split to primary and secondary tanks on the frame.

Start looking for a service manual. I got one on ebay for $175. Absolutely invaluable. It is about the size of a medium phone book and has pull out wiring and air schematics. The air schematics have been critical to properly restoring all of the air lines in mine.

Before you tow, if you are going to tow on the back drives, make sure you have adequate clean oil in the axle. It would be best to have it loaded on a landoll or rgn and not risk towing on the axles, in my opinion.

I will be glad to help answer questions. This was my first semi to work on but I feel I have learned a lot about these 359s. I will be honest and tell you if I don't know the answer. For instance, I know nothing about Cats. Mine has a Cummins.

Also, I got insurance from Hagerty for around $300 a year to cover it since it is a classic. I can also get classic plates here in Illinois to drive it. Bobtail only but nice to be able to use it a bit without having commercial insurance.

John

 

Ive done this on that engine. First bar it over by hand then, remove air intake and check water to air cooler, most likely to be full off junk. Prepare for years of mouse dung and pee. Dont change oil yet. Makesure fuel solinoid operates pump, and go over starter and batteru system. Now disable the fuel pump shut off. We dont want it to fire yet. Get it craking over at a good speed and well. Start spraying wd40 into intake while its rotating. It may fire on it but thats fine. And when i say spray i mean like two cans at once in to intake. This will help unstick the rings. And remove some rust from liners. You will hear it start toake compression. May even run on wd40. Then drop the fuel line off of filter head on to clean fuel supply. With new filter on. Then put power to pump and cranker up. But start it on wd40. No starting fluid here. It wont work. Not gonna lie you will have the worst stinky grey/black exhaust there is. Again mouse pee and dung. When its running on its own. Shut it down and change oil. Probally will do that twice, keep a eye on coolant. If level drops fast. It going into oil via seals on liners. Now i would just disassemble and rebuild if the engine is to be put to work, if its a toy or show truck, id run it some the way it is. But it was parked for a reason.