Tell this RV'er how to be nice to all the truckers he's sharing the road with

I think you are also going to find that your trailer is way over the listed weights. On one of the RV forums I frequent, it is not unusual for trailers to be 20 -50% over the listed weights.

 

Be very careful when you diddle with tongue weights. There is a fixed amount of pounds you can put on there and not one pound more.

Remember also the quality of your rear tires, suspension and towing vehicle's total loading as well. Be sure your towing vehicle can handle the weight you plan on imposing onto it. I have seen too many people roll along with the engine and front bumper pretty high up in the air and too much trailer causing them to drag the rear end. I will never understand why they do that.

A dually is a wonderful wonderful idea. I had used hankook 265/65/16's on the rear wheel, each with a weight capacity of 3000 pounds. Theoratically I can put 6000 gross on that axle and another 6000 gross on the front axle of my tahoe./ The vehicle gross weight rating is right about 8540 or so. I think the net weight is around 6200. I can probably put around 800 pounds toungue weight on that class III hitch and 6000 pounds worth for trailer.

That creates a combination vehicle approaching say 13000 pounds. I think that's quite enough.

 

The high flow nozzles will not fit a pick up truck filler neck, so in reality a pick up truck/5th wheel, etc., is not going to be taking any time filling up at a TT pump. They need a 4 wheeler pump and nozzle.

 

Yeppers. At one time it was common practice to list the weight as "empty" What that means is walls, windows, and doors. AC, heating, water heater, propane tanks, stove, microwave are all added weight, but it's not listed. Then you get to add in all the camping supplies, food, clothes, etc and it can get heavy quick

Find out the true weight of your 5th wheel. Go to a CAT scale, get the initial weight of the truck & 5th wheel. Then go drop the 5th wheel , and go do a re-weigh of just the pickup.

 

Nope dont mind! Just make sure you go in right way and remember those are high rates pumps!

 

Feel free to use the truck fuel lanes. Murray pto up after fueling and don't sirens had an hour in the store. Basically the rumor of thumb is get fuel pull up so the truck behind you can start fueling while you go get your receipt. If you are going to be in three longer than taking a leak and filing your thermos go park in a parking spot first.

In rolling hills: If you pass me at the bottom of the hill don't confer over right away cause chances are your pickup doesn't have the torque to climb the otherside and all you ate going to do use tap me behind you so i gotta climb the hill at your pick ups speed. This does not apply to any big box fleets such as swift werner etc etc. They got gutless wonders for engines.

At rest areas, if they have a parking area for rvs use it! Dont take up the limited truck spots unless there is no other option.

For your tail swag. Unfortunately its almost certain that you just don't got a big enough truck for the trailer. 3 outings. Live with 55. Get a bigger truck. Get a smaller rv.

 

Those pumps are really seriously high rate.

A squirt is like 20 gallons instantly. By the time you get the handle off, it's another 10 gallons gone.

 

i don't care if a rv uses the big truck pumps however big truck pumps work a little different than your used to. you fuel you pull up from the pump you go in and pay leaving room for the truck behind you to start fueling. you pay for your fuel then you go park the truck in the lot if you want to go inside and shop. lolly gag wife wants to powder her nose ect.

 

Not true my 2015 Laramie takes high speed nozzle just fine