I bought a 2018. LM is a viable option for those who don't have the credit to buy from a manufacture/dealer. MHC wanted 20-30k down on a 60k truck.
I put 15k down on a brand new truck.
If you are working with a lower credit score and under 10k down payment, then IMHO lone mountain is the best choice over any other 2nd hand dealers or company programs.
Yes company leases may have better safety nets for unforeseen problems. But your possible profit is also less, because they charge more for their products and services. Like the sharks at places like ATS and others. That's the gamble.
Here I am 2 months into a brand new truck and my truck is out for 4-7 weeks(my first accident). This is why they want to see you have a savings back up.
Now here's the kicker. With a used truck you have to roll the dice again. There is less total capital at stake, but usually more risk for repairs with no warranty.
Company, less risk, less profit
O/o,leased, more risk, more profit
IC, more risk, more profit
OA, most risk, most profit
Lone mountain
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Johnnylove, Mar 4, 2018.
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Last edited by a moderator: Mar 7, 2018
Reason for edit: Fixed quoteTug Toy Thanks this. -
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If you have good credit, it's best to buy outright or go to a dealer with your own financing.
There are several aftermarket warranty companies out there. As long as you take care of your truck per their fine print service requirements, then they will help put after the manufactures warranty.
Yea my truck was a sad sight to see. Just always keep a reserve of 3 months in case of down time. -
Also the newer 680s are the only thing I would buy outside a volvo. I took a risk on a w900 and it's nice, but I miss 8+ mpg...
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That new w900 is niiiice but that cost a pretty penny too lol so Ill start out with something in great shape but cheaper to keep most of my money in my pocket for maintenance
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That's a good idea. My opinion, 2013-15
Volvo 670, 730, 780
Volvo motor and I Shift or manual
Cummins only with manual
Kenworth 680
Only with a Cummins and manual
Freightliner Cascadia
Only with Cummins and manual
Finding one with an APU, even if it needs work, is money in the bank. -
Working on it right now in my driveway.
And the warranty? They are not worth spit on these EPA trucks. Best to learn the systems on whichever model motor you purchase. Then start buying tools and diagnostic equipment. The dealers in most cases will just throw parts at it and never fix it. Been there too...
Hence, several thousands of dollars in tools. I just did my taxes, sitting right here, 2017 I bought $7,475 in tools, and had parts and repairs, including service, to the tune of $10,248.00. That was just to keep it on the road... This past couple of weeks I have already spent around $3000 on an air compressor, air dryer and power steering pump, along with coolant lines, gaskets, o rings, etc... None of this includes lost revenue. And I paid CASH for all of it, no credit cards here.
If you are smart, you will go find yourself an older truck without all of this crap on it. I would look for an 870 Cummins, Detroit Series 60, or an old Cummins N-14 and go make some money. Just speaking from experience, and stubbornness.Last edited: Mar 22, 2018
Speed_Drums and DougA Thank this. -
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One thing with lone mountain is what you owe is what you owe. You pay what is left and pre paying off your truck doesn't save you any interest. So even if you pay extra on top of your minimum payments you won't save any money.
So keep that in mind.
Example. 42 payments of 1375 a month is 57750. Add on your 4500 down = 62250 total.
Even if your pay it sooner your still going to pay the 62250. So you pay alot of interest on it before it is yours.
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