12.7 detroit overheating and everything is new

Look i am a diesel mechanic turned truck driver. 4 generation owner operator. Felt like I need to own one wtf. Anyhow i had detroit rebuild my motor. Too busy to do it. If i wasnt there the customers would call someone else. 3 overhauls and a reman motor later i can say its running ok... still dribbles coolant all the time. Oil consumption has slowed. First rebuild used 4 gal in 10,000 miles. Now 1 gal in 10,000. Smokes like a sob every day at start up. -34, or 105 degrees parked inside, or outside. It smokes till warm. 4 core rad and runs 190. But in stop and go traffic, docking, or idling to long 210. Fan on at 215. Used to be 205. Its not right. But they are forced to do it. You can fix it. Detroit cant legally fix it. Go to someone else. Now detroit about had a fix when mine ran 518hp to the ground and i swear the computer is stock. Dealing with bs till some more miles are on it. Then it will be tuned right. And i wont care about warranty.

 

Then make a K I S S principle list of everything that could cause it. List all the things suggested and look at the Detroit trouble shooting guide for Low Power, Over Heating, Poor Fuel Economy. Put the items off the trouble shooting guide it order of any thing that''s on all three lists, then two, and one. Any other possibilities or tests? Left a metal cap in the turbo outlet and the muffler stopped up? Camshafts out of time? Can you find a test ECM? Do a coolant blow by test under load with in a water bottle taped to mirror or some thing, I don't thank that is your problem. As temperature increases it will bubble normally and stop as the temp stabilizes, don't be quick to condemn a few bubbles. Then arrange your list in order of most likely with a dash of least expensive added to it. Plan your work and work your plan. Just my thoughts! Good Luck! Keep us posted.

 

Every detroit shop will reprogram the computer on any older truck that comes in. It's an emissions thing. Thank the commies in California.

 

I had this problem on a 1965 dodge finally changed water pump it showed no signs and still pumped only weak.I noticed on my Detroit when my water pump went bad same thing took off too hose insert big screwdriver and took a lot of effort to spin impeller took it off all bearings tight except impeller shaft or somewhere in there sheared clean in two pieces might be worth checking

 

Maybe the one thermostat you took out was the good one

 

Don’t know if your Kenworth has an air supply to th cab or bunk heater valves or not I’m sure you’ve had the water valves off already I had one go bad on a western star and on a freight liner causing 110 lb air to go into coolant everyone told me it was a cracked head this has caused many unnessesary rebuilds Doesn’t sound like you’re problem but it will cause intermittent overflow coolant loss as it only leaks when valve closes had me pulling my hair out for a couple months $20.00 part

 

As far as a Lo box program goes I’ve had two 99s rebuilt and never a problem like yours I guess they retard timing 5% as part of a settlement between epa and all three engine manufacturers as I recall any 12.7 built after Jan 99 already had this program and prior engines were to be fixed upon overhaul with xtra cost being absorbed by Detroit I remember as I was buying one I specifically looked for the older engine I had a 99 in freightliner blew head gasket at 540 k took a lot of complaining but got new head and gasket from my regional Detroit rep here in se Michigan I thought fair since I’d been adding coolant for at least 40k then at 825k dropped liner total overhaul low nox but it still had good power no hot issues my current 2001 freightliner has a 98 12.7 from factory same as my 99 it too fell apart at 825 k I bought it at 875k 50 k on overhaul it now has somewhere around1.3million on OH over 2 million on orig bull gear Finally got oil sample back with flying colors go figure I’m curious what’s wrong with yours could it be fan or clogged air to air find blocking radiator I know you said all new good flow but they can plug up quick especially in dusty conditions I’ve had to remove and clean both rad and air to air with water and air from backside I think the key here is if it runs hot all time or just under Load etc summer winter ? If it’s an internal cracked head or something better chance it does it all time mine ran hot in subzero weather wh the head gasket was blown good luck

 

I just noticed the date on this thread !!! New to board maybe info can help someone else guess Ill never know what his problem was!