250 Cummins Jakes

New problem I have is my white classic with about 120k on Detroit reman has a noisy accessory drive, and vibration not speed related, but load and rpm related. Pull it out tonight and bearing is louder than I think it should be. Quick pry on bull gear and I think I seen movement. I will put a dial indicator on it in am. However I notice that the acc drive has japan bearings in it. Not happy. Rant over, gonna have beers and worry about it in am. Its out of warrenty.

 

I think the very first thing i need to do is figure out exactly what i can get out of her. Cpl2592. I've talked to my local cummins dealer about building her bigger and stronger and they looked at me like i had two heads. So few of us anymore that do more than just change out stock parts for identical replacement, the dealers just don't know how to deal with us. I want to build her as strong as possible, if that means changing cam injectors and turbo no problem. If it means changing cranks... well ok,i don't want to but i will if i have to. But at that point if i got to pull the engine to stop the crank i think i might look into buying a used one and rebuilding it on the side while still running the truck so that i can just swap it in when done.

 

Reply to James: I thank we are in the wrong area here but I will share this. About 15 years ago I repaired a new high dollar horse trailer on three legs. Bearings burned up on one spindle and pulled that hub to get off the road. I also did not like the Chinese bearings. Ordered Tempkins for the whole trailer. They were made in three different countries and I thank one of them was China. Also over it.

 

I put a genuine Eaton overhaul kit in my RTO15615. Some bearings were stamped SKF, some Link Belt, some Eaton and I think a couple were Timkens. Quite an assortment in there.

 

The cat guys will skin me, and I like them all and worked on all of them. The N14 is the easiest to hot rod and bullet proof if taken care off. You cant drive a Big power engine like a rookie. Im not that old but grew up with a family that all hot rodded the big and small cams. My dad taught me how to drive and care for one. With the modern electronics most drivers dont know. The ecm keeps them from melting one down. My grand father was the first one with a dual feed fuel line on a 190 Cummins that he put in a White mustang. Cummins got the idea from Paul. Then he put a turbo on it to make it a 220. Had the exhaust running thru the cab so it fit. With a mack duplex trans behind it. Single axle with tag. Guess it was hard on tires back then.

 

I've driven more mechanical engines than i have electronic ones so I'm used to watching gauges so you don't melt it. I just don't know cummins. Can year a detroit apart with my eyes closed, but this is my first cummins in 20 years.

 

I rode with my dad in the early 70s. He started as a Jimmy driver in the early 50s, but switched to Cummins by the mid 50s. He told me how you need to drive them, and it was exactly the same. First Cummins had and have gobs of torque at idle, so you didn't jazz them while letting out the clutch like you had to with the other engines. Second, never floorboard a Cummins. Dont wind them as much as you would a Jimmy, and finally, walk into the throttle, dont just mash it to where you want it.

I drive my series 60 the same way and I get pretty good mileage because of it.

 

Pm sent with my cell number. Shoot me a text or call when available. If i don't answer it means I'm outside chaining down or inside on the pot.