What I did to get ice cold air in my ProStar

Trucking in Tennessee · Jun 17, 2018

Justrucking2 said: ↑

That is ok, maybe the post will help someone else.
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I was just going to tell him that.

Tb0n3 · Jun 17, 2018

Justrucking2 said: ↑

The turbo boost gauge is what we use to save fuel, try to keep it under 12 pounds of boost. The EGT (Pyrometer) is used to catch any overheat situations, every truck should have one. This is also used for fuel economy. A hot motor is less fuel efficient.

Try running her at 1650, I have to run in low 9 with my 18 speed. The low side of the top gear puts me right at 1650 rpm at 65 mph. Shift above that too, do not lug the motor! The way Cummins designed the liners in these things is criminal. The liners are the sleeves the pistons live in for those that did not know. The liners are sitting on a very small and narrow ledge inside of the block. The liners are not offset for the stroke of the pistons, so that when you lug the motor, there are extreme forces applied to the liner wall on the up stroke. When lugging the motor it just beats the hell out of those liner walls, which eventually leads to a fretted, or busted lose liner. When they are beat out of position, it takes out your head gasket and then the head itself. The only cure is an in frame, figure $30,000 for one of those.

I just went through my second in frame with this particular truck, I did the work myself this time around. The first one was severely botched by the dealership, they installed 450hp CM-2350 parts in my 600hp CM-871 motor. It was not pretty, and I am going to spend most of this year catching up $$$$.

And you do know about the fuel pump? That needs to be rebuilt every 300,000 to 400,000 miles. If you ever get a fuel pressure warning, shut the truck down IMMEDIATELY! The oil pump tappets fail, and when they do, they go directly into your engine oil, through your filter and into the head and lower end. If caught in time, like as soon as you get the low fuel pressure warning, you may get away with just changing the filter and flushing the motor. If you continue to drive, it only takes around 300 miles to boat anchor the motor. If you catch it in the middle, you are looking at minimum a $10,000 repair bill to hopefully save the motor and clean out all of the shrapnel. Normally this entails replacing the camshaft and rollers, along with new rod and main bearings. It is not pretty. And many times, Cummins will not warranty this work. So, if you have a warranty, find out if oil pump failure is covered. And when I say covered, not just the pump, but the entirety of the motor too, especially if it takes it out.

Head over to Rawze.com. there is a ton of info over there regarding this fuel pump issue.
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It's strange that you say to shift above 1650 when the efficiency programming directly from Cummins often ####s off power on flat ground at 1500 so you have to shift into 1050-1100. Why would the manufacturer of the compay do that if it's a problem?

Justrucking2 · Jun 17, 2018

Tb0n3 said: ↑

It's strange that you say to shift above 1650 when the efficiency programming directly from Cummins often ####s off power on flat ground at 1500 so you have to shift into 1050-1100. Why would the manufacturer of the compay do that if it's a problem?
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Cummins also says it is ok to lug their motors... They sell many in frame kits, trust me on that.

stillwurkin · Jun 24, 2018

texasmorrell said: ↑

There is an "Ambient Air Temperature" sensor that you need to find. This sensor is the one that reads the outdoor temperature, if like my truck, it reads all over the map. If 60* outside, it will read 100*, -20* it will read 40* and so on. This temp sensor controls more than just that thermometer in the cab, it is also tied into your AC system.

Mine always reads about 40 degrees too high. I had no idea it was tied into the AC system. That explains a lot. I will look for mine tomorrow. Located right under the radiator where the fan blows off heat explains a lot. Idiot designed that for sure.
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Why the ambient air sensor? What, now we humans can't adjust our ac? How about "cab air quality sensor" so when we experience flatulence that smells bad, the sensor can put windows down.

texasmorrell · Jul 20, 2018

stillwurkin said: ↑

Why the ambient air sensor? What, now we humans can't adjust our ac? How about "cab air quality sensor" so when we experience flatulence that smells bad, the sensor can put windows down.
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The ambient air temp sensor is tied into the auto idle shut down. This allows the driver to idle without the engine shutting down when the temp is too hot or cold outside. Of course I just turned my auto shut down off so my engine always runs.

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