Where is everyone #5

I feel like a step would have been the proper trailer design for this.

 

There is nothing wrong with hauling it on that. The only thing step would have gain is lower clearance. Some steps have a lot of arch too. But that trailer as far as I'm concerned it don't have much arch. My 23 year old Freuhauf has more arch with 90 grand on the deck.

 

Yes sir. My Dad and Mom are in the middle, my kids, grand kids , a couple good dogs and a couple ol Peterbilts that got me here. Pretty well every thing in life I have been proud of

 

If I were dealing with this since it's already loaded and 1250 miles down the road, first I'd use the rub rail for the strap attachment, the straps are not designed to take the sideways load on the hook @Lysdexis posted in another picture. Second, since it's a structural piece with 3 points of contact along the length of the trailer I would strap the front and middle leaving the back not touching. Trying to strap all three contact points of a stiff structural piece to a trailer that flexes is a recipe for disaster.

As for the straps themselves, if your unable to hook to the rail (not fully welded spools) then either go all the way under to the frame rail (looks like s$$t but works) or the better choice, chain end straps or chain end adapters for the straps.

For future reference, the way I would load something like this is all the way to the front of the trailer, use 1/2 thick pieces of plywood or chunks of mudflap to shim the front and rear legs till the middle legs are not touching. Doesn't need to be a big gap, just not touching the deck. 2 straps at the front right next to each other (penalty strap covered by using 2) and 2 at the rear. Piece is 15k, that's 4 straps over so your covered on the weight and unless the piece is >30' in length, your cover on the 1 strap per 10' of length plus the penalty. As for height, being as short as it is it's unlikely you'd need more than an inch or two of shims. If you measure at 13-7 when your done, loaded and ready to roll then crawl under the truck and adjust the leveling valve to lower the suspension. (FYI, out west the legal height in many states is 14-6) don't lower it too much to the point of binding the driveline but most every truck can be raised/lowered a couple inches without problems.

Ultimately for something like this unless specifically prohibited by the customer, this would get chained. For reasons already stated he did not have that option.

 

Hello darlin
https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/27867761/1985-peterbilt-359exhd

 

Is Wisconsin your country? I dont get that way often. Be open to any an all pointers. Helpful hints etc that you could share

 

Im glad for you. That is really neat brother.

 

Step was just for clearance purposes.

Yes, it's been a learning experience for sure. And yes I was fine for everywhere but Oklahoma. 13'6 limit in Oklahoma so an inch or two of shims would have put me over, which I was permitted for 13'7 but after adjusting where it was strapped at it brought it to legal. Told the office late Friday to not get the permit but the permit company already pushed it through even though they said they wouldn't be able to until Monday.

It's now 161.75 inches so right at 13'5.75 so I'm legal but next time I've got something like this itll get shims and permits.

 

Can a small hole sleeper truck be converted to a big hole sleeper?

 

Seen it done on some petes going to a ultra sleeper. Will enough time and money anything can be done. What brand you looking at?