Obviously gearing can be effected by tire size but only by about 60-70 rpms. So all other things being equal what is the advantage/dis-advantage of Lo-Pro VS Standard sidewall? Thanks
Lo-Pro VS Standard?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by 7mouths2feed, Jul 14, 2008.
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Well lo-pros can be cheaper than the stand ups, also they are alot easier to find in the lower 48. I think as far as fuel millage goes you will see better millage out of lo-pros, do to them being lighter and having less rolling resistance. The stand ups will last longer but not by much.
jamespmack and 7mouths2feed Thank this. -
Rounded_nut, Rideandrepair, jamespmack and 1 other person Thank this.
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it's more like 200 rpm isn't it? not 50 or 60. also if pulling a van you have fifthwheel height to worry about. if your trailer wasn't built for tall rubber you can be over 13'6"
jamespmack Thanks this. -
11x24.5---44in dia----1837rpm
LPx24.5----42.2 dia----1915rpm
Difference of 78 rpm
11x22.5---42.1 dia----1919rpm
LPx22.5---41.0 dia----1971rpm
Difference of 52 rpm
Only 134rpm from tall 24.5's to low 22.5's. I was expecting alot more difference too. Biggest difference in milage is going to come from weight and rolling resistance differences.jamespmack and serozhah Thank this. -
I had a tire shop in the mid eighties catering to big trucks.
back then it was a bit more controversial swapping from 11r to lp's or even the super lp 255's.
did the better fuel mileage make up the difference in lost longevity???
of course back then... fuel was going for .49 a gallon including the fed tax.
biggest mistake I saw back then... was guys were used to airing tires to 100psi some only airing to 90 because they were used to bias ply which only took 80psi.
to little air psi made for funky wear patterns and generated more heat.
lp's (then) were supposed to be aired to 115 psi and the 255/70/22.5's took 125-130 psi. which scared alot of guys???? thought it would blow up and get them like an old split rim... hehehe
another no-no I saw made all the time was running a new tire against an old one. On the road, if you have a flat, and your tires are worn down you should buy a used to get home on or else buy (2) new ones.
bolting an old tire against a new one will generate heat (possibly causing a blow-out) and one tire will scrub every revolution until the two tires match-up. If you think about it, you'll see it really does not make sense to pay for a new tire and leave all the new scrubbed off in the first thousand miles.
Transport America was the first company I've been around that actually matches tires... the mechanics measure the circumference and marks the take-off with a tire crayon. When you come in with a flat they will measure your good tire and pull the closest matching tire out of stock to mate with it.
also they don't add air to low tires at the shop. If you pull in with a tire lower than 70psi they assume it has a hole (smart) and swap tires out to get you going in a hurry then will air the take-off up and look for leaks after you are gone. good program...D.Tibbitt and jamespmack Thank this. -
Last edited: Feb 19, 2017
ramblingman Thanks this. -
im6under, Rideandrepair and jamespmack Thank this.
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No body has mentioned ground clearance, and for some of us, that means everything.
Tall rubber rides better, a trade off because of the side wall flex and rolling resistance, some of us has been known to run 12 r instead os 11 r, both for the ride and the ground clearance, especially on the steer axle.
The haul road is rough, I have only seen lo pro rubber on trucks that only ran a trip or two.
Sometimes it just isn't about the fuel mileage.uncleal13, Pedigreed Bulldog and jamespmack Thank this.
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