Another ac window unit thread

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by kev2809, Jun 10, 2019.

  1. Boondocker

    Boondocker Light Load Member

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    Years ago when I sold auto parts Gates had a lot number on the belt also to match up for matching belts.
     
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  3. 77fib77

    77fib77 Road Train Member

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    Pictures please
     
  4. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I remember sets of belts, used to be common, maybe it still is. I’ve never seen them for Trucks though, always just bought 2 of the same, Replacing both, re- tightening after initial week or so. In fact I need to replace a couple now, got them under my bunk, their starting to squeal. If left alone , eventually will wear pulleys, resulting in perpetual squeal. Old Cats were notorious for that, must be all that torque!!!
     
  5. kev2809

    kev2809 Light Load Member

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    welp....

    first unit did not last long. the insides of the unit vibrated so much one of the copper tubes cracked and no more freon. soooo...bought a second one, took it apart and zip tied the crap out of the compressor motor....hardly even moves now.

    today was the first real trial day. now, this info isnt 100 percent accurate because my volt guage never reads exactly right. there is a wire grounding out or rubbing somewhere behind my dash. every time a blinker comes on..headlights....warning dash lights, it pulses with the light or even loses a volt. so based on that.....

    i started the ac unit around 10:30 am..low fan speed on 6 cooling (out of 9). ran really good. volts seemed to be around 12.5+ while driving and while idle dropped to 12..ish. it was really hard to get an accurate reading on the volt gauge. my engine warning is always on..and my oil/water light stays on and flashes at times. i did order a new volt gauge that ill wire seperate so it should read accurate.

    after running in about 3 and a half hours...it seemed i was getting lower volt readings..like 10.5...11 ish. again, not sure how accurate it was. but i turned it off, let it rest about 30 min and cranked it back on and ran the rest of the day....no issues.

    with no dash lights on my volts usually reads close to 14..but stays at 13 usually because of the constant engine light. i would say it was a success...so far. i never heard belts squeeling or seemed like it was overhauling the alternator. and the voltage dropping to 11 (if its even right) doesnt seem like excessive battery drain or cycling. any thoughts?
     
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  6. kev2809

    kev2809 Light Load Member

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  7. kev2809

    kev2809 Light Load Member

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    this is what the gauge usually looks like...with the dumb engine dash light on
    20190611_075640.jpg
     
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  8. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    It will be interesting to see. Once you know bolts for sure. Worst case, maybe add an extra battery? I doubt you now have deep cycle batteries, I’m not good at electrical at all. But the new Mat style batteries are expensive, But supposedly pack more juice.
     
  9. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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  10. snowwy

    snowwy Road Train Member

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    Check your output at the alternator. Buy a voltmeter handheld.
     
  11. kev2809

    kev2809 Light Load Member

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    little update...installed the new volt gauge and running its about 13.8 volts. sitting idle is about 12.5....slooooowly drops if i idle a long time (which i never do).

    BUT....ive had to switch it 3 times. the little copper tube keeps cracking in the same spot where it goes in to the back radiator...then im guessing it loses all freon. ive tried zip tieing the lines...the compressor...sticking styrofoam between the lines..and it keeps breaking. im guessing it just vibrates too much. other than that, it cools really well and makes a world of difference. i need to find a way to strengthen that line and refill it with freon and try again :(
     
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