Appalachian Micro IV?

Sounds like you already have a plan. Another thing is you can call Chrysler, the manufacturer, and tell them the vin and they will tell your truck's GCWR, the other trucks may have something different that we don't know. This is just for your knowledge. I think the correct registration is to add your truck's GVWR, not the GCWR, and the trailer's rating 27000, I'm assuming it should be somewhere over 41000, because if you under register you will be sited for overweight at weight stations.

 

Registering the correct way is better for you, which is to add your truck and trailer's ratings. You won't be cited for under registration, my point is, if you happen to weigh around 40 or 41 and you are registered at 39 you will be cited for overweight.

 

Do yourself a HUGE favor...

Get the part numbers for your wheel bearings then call an industrial bearing place and get the part numbers for TIMKEN brand bearings and pricing. Then go to ebay and look for the bearings.

The bearings you have in there now are cheap Chinese junk. Those axles are NOT designed for constant heavy commercial use (No matter what Kauffman or Appalachian or Texas says). Those axles are designed and intended for RV use or small ocassional use on a utility trailer. Dexter, (the best quality axle manufacturer for that kind of axle) recommends a service interval of no more than 10,000 miles. And bt service they mean remove the bearings, clean, inspect, replace as needed, repack and reinstall... every 10,000 miles. If your running that rig like you need to be to make money your going to get that every 30-60 days.

Get Timkens. I would get 8 sets, (bearings AND races.. ALWAYS change bearing/race as a set) install the 6 asap, keep 2 sets (and a BUNCH of seals) on hand as spares.

ALWAYS carry the tools to change bearings on the road.

I carried a Milwaukee impact, 2 bottle jacks, a bearing grease packer seal driver/bearing race driver, punches to remove the races... plenty of spare cotter pins or lock plates, couple spare axle nuts and thrust washers, 1 left and 1 right brake plate, axle caps... 2 spare tires..

Change the bearings to Timken.
500 miles check bearings for to be sure they are not to tight or to loose
Check again every 5,000 miles. At 20,000 miles repack.

When you can change the worthless electric brakes to electric over hydraulic disc. MUCH safer, MUCH longer lasting.

Good luck in the business
Good luck with your equipment

 

This process is very very important, will save you lot on the road

 

I had my registered at what was noted in the owner's manual as verse to adding the GVWR rating for the truck and trailer together, which gave me a higher GCWR. I have changed it.

 

The sooner the better. Remember, the manufacturer of the. Best quality axles going says service every 10k...

A burned up axle is going to set you back $1,000 to $1,500 and you'll be out of work at least 4-6 days.

Of course you can pre order an axle to have a spare one on hand and save A LOT of heartache and expense when you do need 1. (Which unless your absolutely religious with your bearing maintenance your guaranteed (over time) to need one, or two, three... )

In the mean time, i would do my first bearing check, (jack up each wheel, check for looseness in the bearings) IMMEDIATELY then every 2,500 after that... repack at 7,000 until you grt the good bearings in and then follow that schedule.

If you dont already.know how to change the bearings and what an acceptable amount of looseness is (and how to tighten it when needed) get someone, even if you have to pay them to teach you.

The local trailer shop charges $50 per wheel to repack and of course, none of them have Timkens. They ALL use imported junk bearings. Most RV people don't put 10k on in the lifetime they own the thing so it doesn't matter so much.

Trailer bearings will be your biggest maintenance hassel. Trailer electric brakes and trailer tires second. Truck tires, brakes and front suspension next.