I'm definitely putting the truck to its limits and will be able to take 3 heavy cars or 4 light ones. Will probably be loading all the cars in reverse so the weight will be to the trailer axles as much as I can get it to.
As I have said before, I bought the truck when I didn't think I'd be running with a cdl. I'm stuck with this one till it's paid off and then planning on upgrading to a single axle toter like sport chassis or similar and putting a driver on this one. Will be registering this one to over manufacturer specs. For some reason, a dually pick up is rated for 39k while mine is rated for 33 with identical specs. I'll be registering for 39 and hope for the best ...
Appalachian Micro IV?
Discussion in 'Car Hauler and Auto Carrier Trucking Forum' started by 24kHotshot, Jun 15, 2019.
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USMC '74-'78 Semper Fi and 24kHotshot Thank this.
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Do yourself a HUGE favor...
Get the part numbers for your wheel bearings then call an industrial bearing place and get the part numbers for TIMKEN brand bearings and pricing. Then go to ebay and look for the bearings.
The bearings you have in there now are cheap Chinese junk. Those axles are NOT designed for constant heavy commercial use (No matter what Kauffman or Appalachian or Texas says). Those axles are designed and intended for RV use or small ocassional use on a utility trailer. Dexter, (the best quality axle manufacturer for that kind of axle) recommends a service interval of no more than 10,000 miles. And bt service they mean remove the bearings, clean, inspect, replace as needed, repack and reinstall... every 10,000 miles. If your running that rig like you need to be to make money your going to get that every 30-60 days.
Get Timkens. I would get 8 sets, (bearings AND races.. ALWAYS change bearing/race as a set) install the 6 asap, keep 2 sets (and a BUNCH of seals) on hand as spares.
ALWAYS carry the tools to change bearings on the road.
I carried a Milwaukee impact, 2 bottle jacks, a bearing grease packer seal driver/bearing race driver, punches to remove the races... plenty of spare cotter pins or lock plates, couple spare axle nuts and thrust washers, 1 left and 1 right brake plate, axle caps... 2 spare tires..
Change the bearings to Timken.
500 miles check bearings for to be sure they are not to tight or to loose
Check again every 5,000 miles. At 20,000 miles repack.
When you can change the worthless electric brakes to electric over hydraulic disc. MUCH safer, MUCH longer lasting.
Good luck in the business
Good luck with your equipmentUSMC '74-'78 Semper Fi and 24kHotshot Thank this. -
24kHotshot Thanks this.
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I keep getting different opinions about what to register my setup at.
I doubt I'll ever pass 35k without overloading my rear axle. As far as I know, my truck's gcvwr is 33k but I don't see any differences between my c&c and the pickup truck model yet the pickup is rated to 39k. My 5th wheel is rated for 32k. My trailer is rated to 27k and the truck is 14k but I know I can't load up 41k without overloading my drive axle.
I'll just register for 41k knowing I will never load it up that heavy.
Do weigh stations notice axle weight or are they just looking at gross? Is it a ticket or OOS? What if I get higher rated tires for my rear, would that help me any? Can I upgrade the rear axle somehow legally? -
The sooner the better. Remember, the manufacturer of the. Best quality axles going says service every 10k...
A burned up axle is going to set you back $1,000 to $1,500 and you'll be out of work at least 4-6 days.
Of course you can pre order an axle to have a spare one on hand and save A LOT of heartache and expense when you do need 1. (Which unless your absolutely religious with your bearing maintenance your guaranteed (over time) to need one, or two, three... )
In the mean time, i would do my first bearing check, (jack up each wheel, check for looseness in the bearings) IMMEDIATELY then every 2,500 after that... repack at 7,000 until you grt the good bearings in and then follow that schedule.
If you dont already.know how to change the bearings and what an acceptable amount of looseness is (and how to tighten it when needed) get someone, even if you have to pay them to teach you.
The local trailer shop charges $50 per wheel to repack and of course, none of them have Timkens. They ALL use imported junk bearings. Most RV people don't put 10k on in the lifetime they own the thing so it doesn't matter so much.
Trailer bearings will be your biggest maintenance hassel. Trailer electric brakes and trailer tires second. Truck tires, brakes and front suspension next.24kHotshot Thanks this.
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