Anybody?
2011 freightliner columbia with a 14l series 60. Acting a little funky on my last load. Got back to yard and when I was backing into parking space it stumbled and smoothed out. Shut it down and before I left my curiosity got the best of me and I wanted to double check it. Turned key for start up cycle and threw two fault codes and truck will crank but not start. Came back next morning and it had no codes and fired up. Ran around the yard and block. Doesn't seem like it's running 100% but it ran with no faults. Backed into spot and shut down. Tried to restart and no dice. Now just that one fault code. I can't seem to find what fail 09 means. Does my ECU have a battery on it? Any help appreciated.
Code 128 sid 158 fault 09
Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by 2hot2handle, Jul 14, 2019.
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First thing to check are all your battery connections.
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EGR code, or short in harness I'm thinking.
Or ECU is dying. -
Had a tech scan it and its low battery voltage and communication error with vpod. Told me with the vpod closed there's no way the truck will start. Any way I can circumvent this to avoid a tow to the dealership?
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How low is voltage?
No idea why vpod is closed?
Is it air, or electric vpod?
I've been told that Detroit has a few different types of vpods that were used on 60 series.
The vpod just controls the turbo vanes.
But that code is probably telling engine not to start its trying to preserve the engine.
Try unhooking batteries for 10 mins. That may get rid of the code so it will start? -
Tried battery trick twice. Electric vpod I believe. Ddec VI. I assume the vpod is closed by the faulty computer or a fail safe function. Used contact cleaner on the three vpod connections in frame rail. They were all full of oil. Used a whole can and it barely cleaned them. Plugged them back in just as the wrecker showed up. Tried to start and still had codes and no start. Had it towed to dealership. This morning dealership called and said truck fired right up. I explained it had done this for me and after driving for a bit it will act up after shutdown. They road tested and confirmed after up to temp it didn't start. They waited an hour and it wouldn't fire. Dealership said faulty mcm. Swapped in known good mcm and it fired right up. I asked and affirmed that all the wiring leading up to and from this was okay and was told yes. Don't want to throw parts at it with bad wiring being the original culprit. Do they keep my old mcm as a core or can I ask for it back and have it sent out and keep for a backup? Does $1500 sound high for diagnostic and p & l? Thanks
Last edited: Jul 16, 2019
Intothesunset Thanks this. -
They use your old as a core.
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Copy. Thanks driver
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