D13 and with i shift, vibration using stage 3 engine brake.

Wrong thread

 

Huh?

 

You can’t delete your own post. You can edit for a little while after posting it but that’s it. Unless you know how to delete a post??

 

Anyone still reading this. Have the same problem. Started in just high setting then began in next setting down and I get a whistle noise from the engine bay. Took the Engine exhaust brake valve off and ran some air through it and the piston was opening fine. But back on and tried the balloon test. Disconnect the air line to the brake exhaust value and put a balloon on the air line. Start engine and watch to see if the balloon inflates. if not, no air coming through the line. Haven't done it yet but my next move is to trace the line back to its source and check to see if there's air coming into the line. Also check line for leak. Leave the balloon attached to line and blow air in through opposite in of line. the whistle nose? I hooked a air hose (no more the 5 psi} to the engine exhaust brake valve where I disconnected the line and ran the engine. The nose stopped. In conclusion, Engine brake vibration and whistle noise a result of no air going into valve. Going to be a ##### to trace the line. It goes all the way back behind the engine and is wrapped with other lines so have to cut the wrap to find were it's going and it's only 113 today. LOL

 

I had that issue. Checked all engine brake pistons and one of them was loose .50k miles later works perfect.

 

THAT is beautiful.

I usually redline my Kitty Jacobs stage three. No worries luckily.

I bet KMX's thought is the key.

 

Its the engine brake plungers

 

What others have said, engine break plungers, engine break pistons, whatever you want to call them works. What Volvo calls them is the VEB system or Volvo exhaust brake, the nuts back off and you can either have them re-torqued with red loctite, (disclaimer typically not a permanent fix per mechanic). Or can replace them with the new Volvo design that is suppose to fix this known problem. From my understanding if you are under 500k this is a warranty replacement, if not, parts are going to cost about 4k with another 1k labor. It is not typically performed during a valve adjustment, why? Who knows. It shouldn't cost more than about an hour of labor to add that to the valve adjustment since you are already there with everything all opened up. Mine is getting done today at a lot much much lower cost than replacement and I figure 5k = a lot of adjustments in the future prior to inframe or rebuild.

I'll try to remember to come back and provide some feedback after getting back out there.

2015 780 with 830k

Early is on time and on time is late...................

 

Update on above: Overhead was $450 and the worked the VEB adjustment in at $155. It did help however there still is a vibration so I have a few other things to check. Now, not sure if anyone has had to buy valve cover gaskets...apparently Volvo came up with the smart idea to use two, ok no big deal except they cost $300 each. Really Volvo!?! Feel like I took it in the ##* ridiculous!