Trying to remove u joint from yoke

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Shotgun94, Dec 15, 2019.

  1. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    X2 ^^^^^^

    Even with the Tiger tool, the really tough ones take some persuasion with the BFH in the right spot or the press will break if you have enough ### in your gun.
     
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  3. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    I have a u joint tool but I don't remember who made it.
    Also use an axle shaft like a tire bead slide hammer sometimes. Hit it right next to the cap. If you slip and hit the tube you have messed it up.
    If the shaft is out sometimes I set the ends of the cross on 6 X 6 and hit the yoke next to the cap with a big hammer.
    On really bad ones I cut the cross out if I have a torch. Be careful because the grease passage can build up pressure. Then the grease can blow out on fire and under pressure.
     
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  4. buddyd157

    buddyd157 Road Train Member

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    OTC makes u-joint pullers a little cheaper than tiger

    Heavy Duty U-Joint Puller

    U-Joint Removal/Installing Tool
     
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  5. Upinsmoke

    Upinsmoke Medium Load Member

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    Just take the drive shaft to a shop with a new u joint.
    My mechanic will replace it for about $20.
    So much easier with a press.
    Not even worth the headaches.
     
  6. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    1710 and 1810 series u-joints are full rounds. Still have to knock 2 caps out on each end to get the shaft out.
     
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  7. Shotgun94

    Shotgun94 Medium Load Member

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    Basically It wouldn't budge with my hammer and punch, the caps are like stuck. I'll try my sledge out sometime just didn't have it. I reason I am doing this is to do a yoke pinion seal.
     
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  8. Shotgun94

    Shotgun94 Medium Load Member

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    Got it off. Just jacked it up from under and it came free!
     

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  9. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Glad that worked out for you! I have driven some but worked as a road - field mechanic a lot.
    Want to say I am smart and figured that out all by myself. At one time I thought that about A/C. When I needed to get certified I read an old Kysor A/C book before the test. Found I read most all of that stuff
    ( I thought I figured out all by myself ) 30 years ago.
    This reply is for others. Be sure the jack is not positioned where it could possibly bend the tube. The reason for chalking the front wheels is because the truck can roll when you have all rear tires off the ground. In the dark on the side of the road I found I was in that situation. Tapping on the yoke ( worked well previously ) did not work. I put some heat on the yoke and it blew out with an explosion.
    You never want all the rears off the ground or that much pressure on the input bearing. However if you get the tires a little light on a grade it may want to slide.
    Probably learned most of that from some old fart I worked with 30 years ago.
     
  10. spsauerland

    spsauerland Road Train Member

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    Nice hole drilled in your frame flange. Next time, move jack more to the weld on the yoke on the driveshaft. Glad you were successful.
     
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  11. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    Beat me to it lol. Sketchy!
     
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