I got a 350BC III, in an 85’ White/Volvo. I’ve been saving the engine and transmission, cause I’ve got 2 Steiger Panther tractors that have the same engine and transmission. I’m wanting to pull the engine out, tear it down and build it back. Question is, can I build it to 500hp and with me driving it responsibly how long of life will it have? Parts from Cummins, Pittsburgh Power,.......?
Cummins 350BC III build
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by mile marker 27, Feb 14, 2020.
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Road tractors and field tractors are different in the load department. Road tractors can have a lot of power but only use it for short periods of time, no problem. Field tractors are loaded all the time and can be like a mountain grade that only ends when you turn around.
You would need a pyrometer. Not real sure what the maximum sustained exhaust temperature is with aluminum pistons. Maybe 800 degrees?
Want it to have lower press fit liners.SAR, OLDSKOOLERnWV, mile marker 27 and 1 other person Thank this. -
The engines are the basically the same, the biggest difference is the fuel pump governors. So if you rebuild one of the fuel pumps for your truck, make sure it’s the one out of the truck and not the farm tractors or vise-versa.
Are you putting it back in the truck or the farm tractors? What’s it going to be doing?
About the longevity, that Motor was built during a time when a good mechanic meant they where meticulous with adjustments, and had the “feel” and had nothing to with computers or wiring. So if your going to build this for the long run, make sure you measure and adjust, measure and adjust as many times as needed until it’s as identical for each cylinder as possible. And almost everything on that engine is adjustable. So if this is your first, then take your time. And if there’s a any question get an answer, don’t just guess.mile marker 27 Thanks this. -
It really boils down to cam followers and your fuel there’s a lot of good combinations out there been too long for me . Pittsburgh power used to have a lot of success so that’s where I would start!
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Pick a CPL and build it to that. I'm not sure what series it is but CPL 625 seems to be the choice of the hot rod crowd.
400 Pistons will give you a lower compression ratio. You will need to change the timing on the engine. It is best to get oversized injectors and have the pump calibrated to them. Just turning the pump up is hard on the camshaft.
You also need the right Turbo to work with those injectors. A big cam 3 should already have the Dual entry exhaust manifold.
@OLDSKOOLERnWV can give some advice.SAR, OLDSKOOLERnWV and mile marker 27 Thank this. -
OLDSKOOLERnWV and Working2party Thank this.
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Are steel piston rebuild kits offered from Cummins?
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Concerning trucks: Search block top right: Cummins ntc 475 and google.
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Yes CPL 625 is a good one for sure.
OP, if you’re going to do a complete build get the cylinders / pistons for the 625, make sure you get the number on top the liner flange...! Just in the event it’s been cut you are getting the proper liners.
A good route is with a larger set of injectors and a pump to match. Many want to just change buttons to add more fuel pressure, that’s fine just remember you’re not only adding fuel pressure, you’re adding pressure to the cam lobes....
A turbo for CPL 2025 is a good choice for a hot 625, I’m actually running one myself.
If you want just a mild Oldskool build you can opt for a set of stock Cummins injectors CPL 310, which takes you from 176 to 190.
What ever you do, I suggest installing a dual fuel line setup, it does make a difference! My engine idles and runs smoother than you can imagine.
Can you toast a piston with a hot engine? Yep, done it!!! Didn’t realize my pyro was lying to me.... burnt through a crack and right down around the wrist pin. Looked like the piston rings were cut with a torch, basically they were!
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