00 60 series engine brake weak

No hi-jack, you're somewhat on-topic, and this started as an older thread

 

I wasn't sure about all this stuff myself at first, so I thought about it for a year or so and talked to Larry about it. We couldn't come up with any reasons why not. Then I found some guys that were doing it and successfully. I got to go for now , but I will definitely outline what I have done so far and what is to come in the future. For starters, going up in HP produces heat, lots of it, so I started up front and looked at coolers. My CAC was original, not good, so I tested that and found it was out of parameters by a bunch. These are brands I used not what I am selling just what I thought was good quality. I ordered a Dura-Lite CAC , the one with the O-rings, saw very noticeable change, fuel economy and power. This spring my radiator, original, started giving me trouble. Ordered the Detroit Co. 4 staggered core 750hp rated unit and installed that. Nice change, as now I can turn on the fan at the bottom of the hill with the AC on 100deg day and just lay right into it and it never goes over 205deg. Full control now over temps, installed an Autometer pyro, the guys that build guages for the Nascar boys, so I can more closely monitor EGTs . Now the fun begins, but the temps have to be controlled first. I do really got to go but I will be back, I have to load tomorrow for Williston, NODAK yippie so prep time.

 

Would like to chat some more thanks for the input so far. Have a safe trip.

 

Not much time to do anything but run this week. Update on the jake situation. After running this week mostly in Wyoming I am quite happy with the new turbo and jake results, completely different. Common boost pressure now @ 1500-1600 rpm is around 15lbs and goes up from there as rpm increases so does boost pressure which is normal, it was the numbers I saw as rpm increased. On a cool morning running rollo pollo out here I saw as high as 21 lbs boost on full jakes, much improvement over the 15lb max I used to see. Programming in the ecm will have some effects as there are many parameters in that box that can change the animal. Like I said before though, CAC test first, make sure the test is done out on the ends of the hoses; the one off the turbo and the one off the intake , with the pipes hooked up the whole deal just as the air is going to flow through it. To many guys want to test just the cooler itself but what about the hoses and pipes? The air pressure is there also. You can have brand new jakes set up perfect but if there is a boost pressure problem then new parts will not matter. It all has to be checked and be right. When you know your CAC system is good, and your jake heads are rebuilt or are good then move on to the turbo. How long has the turbo been on there? I had put 500,000 on mine not knowing how much was on it before. Once I got all the afore mentioned items replaced and checked then I move up. What a difference one step at a time.
J-J

 

When I put the factory remanned pre-egr DDEC IV 12.7 in my new glider, before we dropped it in we put on a Bully Dog ported/coated manifold and a Borg Warner 171702 turbo with a blanket. It makes a very noticable difference compared to stock parts. And was a good bang for the buck conversion. I consistently get close to 25 lbs boost running the jake. And when under power, those mods make for a lot cooler EGT's and a smooth puller on the hills. To put the cherry on top of this, I put Walker Megaflows on the stacks. That is one free flowing exhaust system.

 

Did you ever found what was the problem with the engine brakes?
I'm experience same simptoms since I bought this truck...Overhead was done but Jakes still weak
Thanks

 

I put in a bigger turbo and purchased a Pittsburgh power box long ago ("for off-road use only") and threw a fass fuel system in, flow through muffler and one of them fancy flow through foam air filters. The first three are worth the money if your ecm is calibrated properly to your injectors and your CAC is tight. If you want a flow through muffler buy a standard muffler and make it "flow through" the fancy engineering is not worth the money to me because they rot out.

 

Wow, this thread goes WAY back...