07 ISX going through water? no external leaks

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Fullforce, Feb 22, 2012.

  1. Shaggy76

    Shaggy76 Heavy Load Member

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    Feb 22, 2012
    Orlando, FL
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    They are easy to change out, just time consuming. If you plan to do it yourself, order the kit. It will have the turbo gaskets in it.

    Drain all the coolant into a large container. It is reusable so don;t throw it away, unless you want to change the coolant. Depends on what you want to spend.

    (I apologize for I am new to this site and I don't know how to post pics) Presuming yout ISX looks like the one in this photo on this page. http://naftcenews.wvu.edu/naftc_enews/2007/04/02/cummins-approves-usage-of-b20

    Remove the inlet and exhaust off the turbo. Remove the oil line that goes to the Turbo. Then remove the turbo. Cover the port to keep trash out of the turbo.

    Then remove the line that is on the EGR cooler. That little line is a water line. Then remove the hose on the intake of the cooler and then remove the bolts holding the cooler in place. Make sure to take the gaskets off the exhaust manifold side of the cooler.

    Install in opposite that you removed. Torques for the bolts that hold the cooler on ar 22 lbs. Turbo mounting bolts is 46 lbs.

    When filling the radiator back up, make sure to open the air bleed port on your hard line. You will get aire from changing this cooler out. Top off until water comes out. Then start truck with port still open and top some more. It will be messy, but you have to get the air out. Run engine only long enough until you feel some heat on the bottom radiator line. Then shut down and top off. Ckise valve and start up again. Run engine and top radiator reservoir off. Once at full operating temp, make sure fluid is at hot mark and you are good. Over the next 24 hours, keep checking the fluid level just to top off.

    It is really easy if mechanically inclined. It just takes some time to do. I can do it in about 4 hours, but book shows close to 9. This includes refilling engine with antifreeze and burping air from the system.

    Way cheaper to do it yourself than pay a dealer to do it for a simple job like that.
     
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  3. Rnz520

    Rnz520 Bobtail Member

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    May 4, 2010
    Fredericksburg, VA, USA
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    Do yourself a favor and change the coolant, with all the exhaust gases that go through the coolant loses a lot of its additives and anti corrosion properties. Its cheap insurance. I havent been on this forum in quite a while but from experience Exhaust gases ruin coolant properties, I am a tech at a Detroit Diesel/MBE/MTU/Allison transmission distributor and see a lot of this.
     
  4. Mr. Haney

    Mr. Haney Road Train Member

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    Hungry???

    I don't mean this as a question that is asking you if you're hungry....

    if you know Hungry or are Hungry, then you work at Balls Ford Rd
     
  5. Shaggy76

    Shaggy76 Heavy Load Member

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    Feb 22, 2012
    Orlando, FL
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    I would love to go to work at my local Detroit shop. I graduated tech school after coming off the road of driving for several years. Went to work at a local shop and was laid off. They cut all the new guys out due to the slow down of truck repair. All the dealers are getting the work now because companies are buying new trucks again. All the dealerships want lots of experience or lots of certs. Hard to get many of the certs without the experience. It's like a no win situation down here...

    You are right on your answer, I would suggest changing the coolant. I would always recommmend that to my customers, but some just couldn;t afford it and I had to filter it all back in since we didn't have a coolant recovery machine.

    At a minimum, if you think you will reuse the coolant, test the levls on it. Make sure your protection is good and the ph is good. If protection is good, but ph off, change out your filter with a PenRay filter and it will balance it back out. If protection is off more than 5 degrees, consider it no good.
     
  6. cuzzin it

    cuzzin it Road Train Member

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    Berea, KY
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    i had that problem it was EGR
     
  7. Rnz520

    Rnz520 Bobtail Member

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    May 4, 2010
    Fredericksburg, VA, USA
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    I do work at Balls Ford Rd but I am not Hungry nor do I know of anyone that goes by that nickname, however, I can imagine a couple of people that could go by that nickname. Who are you referring to?

    Edit: yes I know Hungry, took me a day to figure out.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2012
  8. clarkstonjames

    clarkstonjames Bobtail Member

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    Aug 2, 2012
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    have the egr cooler checked and any thing else that is water cooled that wood conect to the exhaust or intake .
     
  9. clarkstonjames

    clarkstonjames Bobtail Member

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    Aug 2, 2012
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    i,v had the same problem to now the peterbilt i got now has the same problem it use,s 4 gallons ever 3 to 400 miles .i was a mechanic for 32.5 years .i,m unable to do manual work any more so i drive now. i would fix it but mine is under warenty so back to the dealer.mine didn,t leak till they replaced my air regulater .now this baby drinks water
     
  10. snowwy

    snowwy Road Train Member

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    my truck shuts down at 225.

    mine runs hot with the wrong brand oil in it. 210 with the fan running. use the right brand oil and i'm at 180 without the fan.

    there are 2 brands i won't run. one is a more common name and can be had anywhere.
     
  11. Mr. Truck Fixer

    Mr. Truck Fixer Bobtail Member

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    Jan 27, 2012
    Ontario
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    No special tools, straight forward job. I like to clean everything downstream from cooler as well when I change one, especially the two little tubes on the intake, also change the crankcase filter. If was leaking badly there will be coolant sitting in the egr valve too, I generally wash everything out with water. common our shop changes 4-6 coolers a week, usually fail around 750,000km
     
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