09 D13 loses power pulling, no codes

I have checked the delta p and its clear and good to go. I went ahead and did the injectors and cups, unfortunately for me, that wasn't it. The truck still doing it. Lastnight it was acting up for a while. A regen started going down the highway and the power loss went away. And hasn't come back yet. She's done 3 regens in 3 days, usually I only get maybe two all the way across the country. Any ideas about that? Again still no codes to accompany the problem. I've changed both boost sensors also.

 

If it is doing a regent its the dpf filter I suggest having it checked out.

 

check the EGR valve it may be bad

 

If it is doing regens too often or regens are too short most likely clogged base of 7th injector and it can not burn on high enough temperature or bad or clogged nox. what i do is i undue the 7th injector from the pipe, which is right after the turbo (injector is on the top of it on d13), without removing coolant lines or fuel supply. Just remove the air filter box and the two 8M bolts holding the injector. just lift it a little and you will see all the crap on the bottom. be careful not to drop the seals on the bottom. clean a little with tooth brush and soak a cotton ball in carburetor cleaner and hold it to the bottom of the 7th injector to soften the rest of the crap left. clean again with a toot brush wipe it and if it looks good put it back together. in not clean enough soak again and brush and wipe. 30-40 min job and takes care of the problem. no need of special skills. no need to bake filter if regen is burning hot enough.

 

About the lack of boost, I think i have the same problem, but not sure. Mine is lacking in between 15 and 17/18 but when i step harder on the gas it goes away. I really think and hope it sucks air from somewhere, but not sure.

 

Hi,
I have the same problem, everything looks fine to the shop computer, but im losing power, a lot, going up hill... How did you solve you're issue. I'm not sure what to do any more...

 

Hi, If the air to air and the intake manifold has been pressurized yet, i suggest to roadtest the truck again under load with the lap top hook up and monitor the egr temperature because on Volvo engine (D-11,D-13 and D-16) the egr valve is activate by the engine oil pressure and the egr valve position in the lap top it's only a calculation (because there is no position sensor on the valve) it's not really the true, base on my own experience to double check the egr valve functionnality during a road test i'm looking more to the egr temp and the intake temperature to figure out how the egr valve is working.
If your engine have to much egr flow it could affect negativly the power and also require more frequent regen because your engine generate more soot in the DPF.
Ben

 

2008,780/D13,
I replaced the original EGR valve 1st time after 900,000miles in 2012, after that again in 2013 and again 2014, was leaking oil, burning and I use synthetic, this smells bab. Every time the EGR cause lose of power or derate and no codes;
Another similar problem as OP describes, losing boost when you press acceleration and you see the boost needle not moving for 1-2 seconds ,kind of lag, was caused by bad turbo actuator : I had this problem 3 times , twice I replaced the actuator only and 2 years ago at 1.1 mil miles, was gone 3rd time and I decided to replaced whole turbo ,even though the turbo itself was still ok; but this was throwing turbo codes, and be careful most shops are going to try to sell you whole turbo, cost me 4800$ installed, but the actuator was 1000-1300$:

Ever since is ok; i replaced cam injectors twice plus cups only twice, no inframe yet,I have 1,465,000 miles, some smoke on blow by, but still running 8mpg.

 

U may think me crazy but I just repaired a Volvo with same issue
And it was due to fuel restriction because of collapsed fuel line inside
The tanks after replacing the lines and new seals I put another happy
Driver back on the road cost him 300 for parts and I didn't charge labor