09 prostar thought i fixed it with a wiggle body controller

Discussion in 'International Forum' started by vicdsm, Apr 18, 2018.

  1. Dallen0104

    Dallen0104 Bobtail Member

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    Sep 27, 2017
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    I have tried resetting my actuators on 2012 prostar by pulling HVAC fuse and waiting 30 seconds plunging back in and key off for 15 seconds and back on they still seem to be confused or lost. Any suggestions or what am I doing wrong.
     
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  3. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Turn your key on,
    turn the blower to speed 1
    Remove the 5 amp HVAC BATTERY fuse and wait 30 seconds
    reinstall 5 amp fuse
    Do not turn off the key or change the blower setting. At this time the HVAC module will recalibrate the door actuators by moving them all the way one way, and then all the way back the other way, and then to their commanded position. Once they stop moving, they are now calibrated. If further codes pop up, something else is wrong.
     
    stuckinthemud and QUALITYTRUCK Thank this.
  4. Smoothtrucker

    Smoothtrucker Bobtail Member

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    Apr 21, 2018
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    Anybody can help...2014 prostar electrical fault only after a hard rain and the truck has been sitting.The truck fires up no problem.. Dash Gauge not working,cruise control, sleeper dome light,horn not working.
     
  5. Smoothtrucker

    Smoothtrucker Bobtail Member

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    Apr 21, 2018
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    For got to add I checked all fuse there good.
     
  6. Jjackson86

    Jjackson86 Bobtail Member

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    Jan 5, 2019
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    Heavy D, I have a 2010 prostar with Cummins ISX. I’ve been having AC issues over the past year that have been plaguing me. I’ve replaced everything on the system but the lines, it still works intermittently. When working it works great, then all the sudden it cuts out.
    Couple weeks ago I was riding down the road and my gauges went haywire. Trac control, abs lights all tach, speedo, fuel, oil pressure gauges all went to 0. Truck seemed to run fine but the alarm didn’t go off until I “kicked” the panel in front of the body controller. It all went back to normal, but it’s done the same thing twice since all with the same result. Shop said I had a bunch of “inactive” faults that he cleared out, AC started working again. A few days ago, I noticed my engine fan is not cycling like it should. I was idling for a while in the port, engine temp hit 200 degrees the about a gallon of coolant can’t out the top of my overflow tank. Changed the fan solenoid and put a new cap on the resivoir, still doing it.
    Do you think my body controller is the culprit? Seems logical with all the problems prior, just wanted to be sure before I buy a new one. Trucks not throwing any codes though. If it is the body controller, I had my ecm flashed and trucks been “deleted” about 2 years ago. I haven’t had any issues since, the guy that did it is very reputable in my area. I just do local work here, and the EGR issues were about to bury me.
    If you have any thoughts as to what you might think please let me know. I’ve been reading you’re posts here for a long time, you’ve been more than helpful, and if I ever find you, dinner and beers on me!
    Thanks in advance HeavyD
     
  7. Jjackson86

    Jjackson86 Bobtail Member

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    Jan 5, 2019
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    Oh BTW HeavyD, if it’s the body controller, with having the delete done, what would the shop have to do to program it? Would it wipe the flash on the ecm out? I know it’s two different computers, but I just hope the dealership doesn’t have to go into the ecm and see my trucks been deleted.. or If they would even touch it.
    My local shop doesn’t have the software to program the body controller so looks like I’m stuck with the dealership.
    That delete cost me 3k and I don’t want to do that again if at all possible.
    Thanks again man.
     
  8. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Ok, I'll start with the a/c. The ac is all body controller controlled. It's cutting off the ac due to either pressure or temp sensor readings out of range. To properly diagnose this, someone with Diamond Logic builder software needs to connect to it and see what is going on. Blindly throwing parts at is just a complete waste of money. Cummins ISX fans don't come on until 207 degrees. So if it is spitting out coolant below that, I suspect you have compression in the cooling system, so a pressure test needs to be done. With the cluster, that sounds like a datalink communication problem. The combination of lights and faulty gauges does not fit with a failed body controller. Normally, you only get non-engine related gauges dropping out and an "electrical fault" message in the LCD window. If you choose to replace your body controller, it does need to be programmed, but that is not the same module as your engine and flashing the body controller is a different program that doesn't effect the engine. 99% of these problems are wiring.
     
  9. bonder45

    bonder45 Road Train Member

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    Williston, ND
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    I had similar issues.

    Did you check the 100 amp fuse under the dog house?
     
  10. Rmplstlskn

    Rmplstlskn Bobtail Member

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    Jan 15, 2021
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    I apologize if this question has been asked somewhere else but if it has ive yet to find it.
    I've got a '16 Lonestar that I recently change the steering column in. Once column was replaced , steering wheel, and all connectors plugged in everything worked as it should for about 6 months. Got up 1 morning to do some maintenance and cleaning, notice that the connector goin to blinker and wiper wasnt completely connected so I disconnected it and wipers went into fast wioe speed once connected they stopped in normal position. Now when I turn them on (only on the intermittent settings) they go halfway...stop...return. low and high work as they always have. The truck was running with heater on at the time I disconnected and reconnected. Thanks your help is much appreciated
     
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