12.7 tough spin when cold

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by stonefly4, Nov 30, 2020.

  1. stonefly4

    stonefly4 Light Load Member

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    Is it hydrolocking?

    I think it is. Something caused the engine to stop spinning as if it had just seized up.

    If it is water getting in the cylinders, then correct, it would have to exit past the rings. That's feasible. The engine produces a lot of blowby and uses a lot of oil. It always has as long as I've owned it—20 years.

    White smoke? If there was a lot of coolant loss, yeah, but 2/3 of a gallon in over 600 miles and three days of not shutting down? Is that enough to cause white smoke?

    I'd like to get an award, but I don't think it's likely. It is time to rebuild. Could you lend me some dough? I'd be doing the work myself, so really, what are the parts for an old series 60 inframe? Just kidding. I don't want to borrow any money from anybody at this point.
     
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  3. lester

    lester Midwest's #1 Feed Hauler

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    I'm by no means any sort of authority on much of anything and without being there its even harder to know but... if it gets enough water in the cylinder over night and only when its cold to hydrolock why isn't it burning more than 2/3s gallon in 600 miles? Doesn't make sense to me but stranger things have happened.

    Before pulling head how about letting it sit for a day and then pull the injectors and have a look in the cylinder to see if there's something sitting in the cylinder.

    Could it be an injector leaking fuel filling a cylinder with fuel? If it was think it would loose prime and be hard starting once it starts turning over.

    Just spit balling here
     
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  4. lester

    lester Midwest's #1 Feed Hauler

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    Id bet an aftermarket rebuild kit and head for that old Detroit isn't to terrible spendy.

    I inframed my cat for 6 or 7k. No head
     
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  5. stonefly4

    stonefly4 Light Load Member

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    Good question!

    I'm still pondering.

    Things just don't add up.

    That's why I'm still in the investigative stage and not running for wrenches!
     
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  6. stonefly4

    stonefly4 Light Load Member

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    I have considered that. The last time it happened, when it finally started spinning, it did spin for an inordinately long time before firing. Usually, it fires up after spinning for about 2 or 3 seconds.

    The injectors are the originals, by the way—almost 2 million miles on them!
     
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  7. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I understand the whole philosophy of pushing it to the limit. Defying the odds. It’s somewhat of a game. I’ve often heard, once the heads off, best to overhaul it. They claim it never lasts long. I did a head gasket at 540k, on my last Detroit. It blew again at 825, dropped a liner. I just had my current one inframed. FP Kit was $1800, Detroit head was $2200. Labor was $3500. Plus, had all 6 holes cut, with labor and shims,$1600. 12.7 parts are cheap , compared to others. Main thing is the liner heights, above the deck. I think it’s 1-4 thousandths, with no more than 2 thousandths difference between cylinders.
     
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  8. jason6541

    jason6541 Road Train Member

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    I don’t know have used several and 100%
    Have proved to be head gasket and or combustion gases in coolant.
     
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  9. stonefly4

    stonefly4 Light Load Member

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    I replaced the starter.

    She spun fast and started right up. I think it was a combination of problems. The starter was weak. It was almost 20 years old. Maybe the Lucas had something to do with it. Also, I think the original idea of hydrolocking played a part.

    I was planning on going back on the road this week, but now I'm not sure that it's a good idea.

    I'm pretty sure that I'm getting a hydrolock. Whether it's in the engine or the air compressor, I don't know.

    This morning, it didn't want to start. The starter (brand new) engaged, and then thunk... no spin. I hit the button again... thunk... I hit it 20 times... thunk... 20 times.

    I waited an hour then hit the start button... thunk... no spin. I opened the hood and watched the front of the engine while I jumped the solenoid... thunk every time. The motor sprung back to the same place with each attempt. The motor isn't tight. It's springing back... to the same point.

    I barred it through. Then I tried again. She spun, but by now the batteries were a little low. Although she spun, all the way around, it was not quite fast enough to start, and there was a spot in the revolution of the engine where there was a slight hangup. She spun past the hangup, but it was there. I think the hangup was the presence of the remainder of some liquid after barring it through and expelling some of the liquid (past compression rings).

    She's getting liquid in a cylinder, ain't she!?!? Either it's coolant in the compressor, coolant in one of the cylinders, or fuel in one of the cylinders. That's my guess.

    I charged the batteries to full and she started right up. I ran it for a few minutes and shut it off. With the key off, I jumped the solenoid. This time she spun without a hangup, meaning all cylinders were clear of any liquid, which they would be after running.

    I think I'm gonna put 'er back on the road. Two years ago, she did the same thing one winter morning... thunk... thunk... thunk... and so on... but she eventually started... and then for two years, no more thunk.

    Hmmmmmm... I wonder...
     
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  10. jason6541

    jason6541 Road Train Member

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    I would say the old engine is tired and due for rebuild. Hopefully it doesn’t spit a rod out while running or refuse to start far away from home out in BFE
     
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  11. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    You can take the exhaust flex pipe off the turbo, see if it’s wet. If so, try to figure what it is. Oil sample will should show whatever leaks past the rings. I’d think if you’re adding coolant, it’s obvious. If not, maybe a leaky injector?
     
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