12V A/C anyone?

If you like the 110 mini spilts, look into an "arctic package" mini splits some mfgr offer. They say the do heat exchange okay down to -10, and personally im pretty sure you should be idling the truck at that temp so the diesel doesnt gel anyway

 

Currently, I use Idle smart and love it. Yes, it still idles my truck but I can set it for how long to idle. My truck idles for no more than 39 minutes at a time. My batteries are old and need to be replaced and that will cut my idle time down to only keeping the cab cool during the summer months.

I’m going to have the PO sugar honey ice tea Dynasys taken off my truck and replace it with a between the rail battery box that holds 4 100ah lithium batteries. Then I’m going with a Cold Master under bunk A/C system like this one:



This set up is a 12v 60amp providing 22,220BTU capacity 359 CFM (REAL). No drilling through my back wall completely enclosed from the outside environment. I estimate the total cost somewhere around $6,000. Most of the cost will be the batteries since a set of 4 lithium will run anywhere from $1,500 upwards to $3,500.

Idle Smart in combination with the Cold Master A/C setup will cut my idle time by 80% only having to idle my truck for 30 minutes every 6-8 hours when taking a rest break or 34 hour reset. Oh, also forgot to include a battery maintainer to the setup. Simple to maintain and no costly repair bills.

Idle Smart cost $2,800 (Already installed)
Cold Master A/C $1,300 + install (Still pricing)
Battery Box $500-$800 (Next couple of weeks)
Lithium Batteries $1,500-$3,400 (Still pricing)
Total estimated cost $5,600 initially for complete system installation and can be transferred from one truck to another and half the costs of most eAPU’e on the market.

lastly, I forgot the cost of removal of this PO sugar honey ice tea Dynasys that cost me $10,000 and $6,000 trying to get the thing to work. Never again will I put an APU on my truck.

 

Just two comments:

1. Where will you mount the condenser without drilling holes in the cab?
2. You may want to reconsider the outside mounted battery box idea for LiFePO batteries. They don't tolerate below freezing temps very well.

 

Also you need a way to recharge them lithium’s. So a good b2b charger and most likely a new updated alternator so you don’t fry your current one.

 

Don't want to piss on your parade but
1. For 22000 BTU you need much more power.
2. Under bed AC install is nonsense or you need to connect to truck air duct system for even distribution.
3. As it was already mentioned, lithium battery can't be charged below freezing, battery with internal heater is expensive and wasting energy for self heating.
Winner solution.
Used Dynasys or Carrier APU generator. You need only diesel engine and generator, all AC crap going in dumpster.
Diesel generator control module in cab to start, control and stop diesel engine.

Split AC system with remote.
Total you are looking for may be 3,000 or less. Can stay cool or warm time little bit less then nuclear sub.
All maintenance will be focused on keep wire connection clean, change oil and air filter on diesel generator once in a while.

 

I looked up the coldmaster kit you posted, its double the price of many other 12v kits and a lot more self-assembly, as @RedForeman mentioned, the fan and condensor unit will need to be outside or at least vented (you can punch the holes in the floor if you prefer) so it wont be entirely in 1 spot in the cabin. Also now you have to figure out your own mounting system (and location) for the pump itself. Smart money is on outside because it will generate heat (and noise) itself

 

Chiming in a little off subject. I have a 5000btu window unit that sits in my passenger side area. I encased it and all heat pipes out the floor of the sleeper. My problem is my inverter will periodically crap out for a few seconds. My current set up:
4 Duracell Ultra 950cca batteries, I was told 175ah each. Wired in series.
Power Drive 3000 watt inverter. Outlets show 120v each at idle.
Haier 5000btu window unit, CEER 11.0, watts 450, amps 4.1 (info from sticker on side)
I was told to get a capacitor. But my inverter and (I believe) my batteries should be more than enough for the compressor to kick on. So, whats causing my inverter to take a dump? Should I get a capacitor, what size?

 

this is running watts. When the compressor cycles it can jump up to 800 watt

 

Replace the batteries with LiFePo batteries.

 

Hence my confusion. But it's a 3000 watt inverter.