I've been having an irritating and confusing problem with my truck's power sockets. A single 12v 10 amp socket had two devices plugged into it; both devices together shouldn't pull more than, or even equal to 10 amps, and on top of that were both plugged in and on for the greater part of 3 hours last night with no problems.
Tonight, the plug on the duel socket adapter melted, within a period of 10 mins. It seems that after some reading it could have had something to do with the socket not having sufficient contact with the leads, as a google search and a thread that I found in this very forum pointed out. That was likely the cause as the duel socket adapter was somewhat of a POS and did not want to stay plugged in (the light kept going out and I shoved it back in)
That may have been the case this time, but here's something I can't understand at all and I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this; I have a 12v DC power adapter for my laptop and it is rated at 4.62 amps output. The plug on this adapter melted and I had to purchase another at a pilot. Several times, I had caught the plug getting hot, but saved it from actually melting, and each time this happened, the truck was off. The end result seems that if the truck is not running, the plug will melt if the laptop is on, but if the truck is running, it will be fine for hours on end. Does this make any sense? What's the significance here? I had a similar instance happen before with a power inverter, only instead of the plug melting the fuse was blowing. Every time I had this power inverter plugged in and my laptop connected (this was before I had the DC adapter and was using the AC adapter with the inverter) the fuse would blow if the truck was off and the plug would be very hot, however, if the truck was running, everything was fine. This beats the ever living hell out of me, I'm at a complete loss as to what could have been going on. Any ideas?
Thanks much!
12v socket melting plugs/blowing fuses
Discussion in 'Trucking Electronics, Gadgets and Software Forum' started by Soundfx4, Dec 29, 2011.
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Air gap at the button end. I used to have the DC adapters melt on my inverters also. So, I went to Wendy's and got their plastic forks. Break the tangs off and once the DC adapter is in the socket push one or two of the plastic fork tangs in along the sides. This prevents the plug from slipping out.
MarkSoundfx4 and Dieselboss Thank this. -
Think that we need to nick name you McGyver.

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Called being the in the military and having to do a lot with nothing trying to fix radio's.
markbullhaulerswife Thanks this. -
soo....McGyver then still? lol
I'll do that with my next splitter, and all plugs from now on, but I'm still puzzled about my previous situation. It was consistent that the fuse would blow when the truck was not running, and it would be fine when the truck was running. I replaced the fuse in that inverter 4 times and each time it blew it was shortly after I powered off the truck and powered up my laptop. *shrugs* :\ -
As the battery voltage drops (with the engine off) a switching power supply that is the heart of an inverter will draw more current - not just a little - a lot. It pulls the current in pulses (not a steady draw) so the instantaneous current spikes will be quite high. I'd think that would be enough to heat up a regular fuse enough to melt the fusable link.Soundfx4 Thanks this.
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ah ha, I see. Well that is...very annoying, but it makes sense! Thank you much for sheding light on this for me!
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time for some old science equations from my rusty brain! Power (the watts you are using) = I (amps) X E (Voltage) remembering this is as easy as pie!
As others have said, once you shut the engine off, the voltage falls from any where from 14.2-13.8 depending on your alternator, down to 12.5 or less as the battery discharges, and if the truck or the inverter don't have some kind of low voltage protector can go down around 10 volts, so the amperage must be picked up to balance the load which stays the same.
But yes, cigarette style plugs are also terrible for keeping a good connection. Depending on the truck and how much you are willing to do/allowed, you may want to change to a different and more solid type of connector.Soundfx4 Thanks this. -
I use to fold a piece of cardboard like a matchbook cover and wedge it in there or cut the tip off a cable tie works good.
Yes any poor connection in anything electronic or electrical will cause power surges.
If you ever blow alot of light bulbs at home....loose wire somewhere.
When I bought this house I'm in last year, my electrical bill ran well above $200.
I upgraded the panel and when I did I noticed all the services wires were loose. I just pulled them out. After installing the new panel, my bill has dropped around the $60-100 range so far.
What are you plugging in soundfx4?? -
let's see, It is a coleman mini fridge, and a LED back lit lcd tv. I do not have the power consumption right off hand for the fridge, but I believe the display is 30 watts peak, or something a long those lines. The socket says 10 amps, so it had to simply be the case that the loose connection caused a higher draw of power. I bought a 10 amp fused splitter (a different design) and shoved some wendy's fork prongs down in there in all the sockets (original and the split sockets). So far, so good, but they've only been running for about 5 mins or so.
When the plug melted, it blew the fuse for the socket, btw. I had that replaced at the Gary OC earlier today. I hate these stupid little 12v sockets, they're so much trouble.
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