2009 Cummins ISX problems

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by freightlinerman, Feb 14, 2014.

  1. freightlinerman

    freightlinerman Road Train Member

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    Mar 4, 2011
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    I'm having some really bad problems.

    About a week ago, I started experiencing trouble. Doing around 60 MPH, I would lose boost. When I lost boost, any incline I climbed I would lose speed. There was no check engine light that came on. The truck would also idle unusually high at 800-1000 RPM. It idled like this during my 10 hour break at 1,000 RPM and when I woke the idle had returned to normal, 600 RPM. This truck was not regenerating, and fast idle is disabled.

    I've had this happen a couple times, and buffed it off as there was nothing I could do. A few days ago, the same thing happened while at highway speeds. I lost boost and had a terrible time trying to get up to speed. If I were doing 65 MPH and I hit an over pass or any incline, my speed would drop almost as if I had it in neutral or my foot off the throttle, because there was NO boost. As soon as the ground became flat, I would get back up to speed very slowly.

    Then, I got a check engine light during one of these episodes, but the engine started to derate. I could not go over 1,200 RPM, when I tried to down shift it would not exceed 1,200 RPM. My top speed was 52 MPH due to the fact, I couldn't get over RPM. A service truck came out and said there was a code indicating high exhaust back pressure. I had to park and waited for my company to send a tow, I ended up taking my 10 hour and sleeping on the shoulder of the road. Long story short, when I woke up in the morning, the idle had returned to normal, the CEL light was off, and the truck was running just fine. I took off and drove it to the dealer my company sent me to for repairs.

    When I Get there, they said the DPF was plugged, they pulled it off and cleaned it. I had already explained in great detail about the CEL, losing boost with out a CEL, erratic idle speeds and 1,200 RPM limit. They said the reason for this was because the DPF was plugged. I was skeptical, as that didn't really explain why the idle was high, why this was intermittent, why the truck was still regenerating fine, and why there were no DPF warning lights on the dash.

    They had it for three days and charged me for 10 hours of labor, $500.00 for the DPF cleaning, a couple gaskets and a clamp, about $1,800.00 out the door. I left, parked for the night and the next morning, drove 180 miles to deliver a load. Just before I got to the receiver, it lost power, meaning i had no boost, there was no check engine light. I delivered and picked up another trailer, drove off low on power. I was doing 20 MPH entering the on ramp on the interstate because I could not get up to speed until the ramp went flat. Eventually, the CEL came on and I Could not go over 1,200 RPM, I had no power. I was hitting red lights, I would have to start off and shift at 1,200 RPM, it took me almost 5 miles go reach 52 MPH. The CEL would come and go, I would hear the turbo sputtering, kicking in and off. The CEL would go off, I could go over 1,200 RPM but had no boost. Then, I would gain full power and would be able to spool the turbo.

    What is going on? I have 530,000 miles, I have 5 inactive codes. The shop said right before I was ready to leave they wanted to keep it because the turbo was bad and leaking coolant, internally. They told me the DPF didn't have coolant in it. One thing about this truck, I'm losing 2 gallons of coolant a week, but no leaks on the ground. Below are the inactive codes:

    MID 128 SID 27
    MID 128 SID 384
    MID 28 SID 131
    MID 128 SID 131
    MID 128 SID 111

    I've tried googling for codes, but can not find EPA 2007 and up. Everything is 2006 and older. Any help appreciated, thanks.
     
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  3. snowwy

    snowwy Road Train Member

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    i didn't have the idle problems your having. but i had the turbo problem your having.

    it's was the EGR pressure sensor. don't remember the codes. there were also 5 codes. but those you posted look familiar. that truck was an 09 t660.

    as for your coolant problem.
    with the cold weather. look at the exhaust when the engine is cold. you might have steam coming out till it warms up. one truck i drove got a new egr cooler. that one was a 09 389.

    also, make sure the engine oil isn't dilluted with antifreeze.

    others will come on here with other ideas.
     
  4. freightlinerman

    freightlinerman Road Train Member

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    They checked, the EGR cooler wasn't it. They said the turbo is cooled by the coolant, and coolant was going through the turbo. No oil in coolant. After numerous lies from the shop on when they would be ready, I didn't want to listen to them any more. After 3 days of having it, they tell me it would be ready in an hour. When the hour came up, I went and asked what is taking so long. They said it needed a turbo, so I told them don't worry about it, I'd fix it another time. They decided it needed a turbo 3 days later when I'm trying to get out of there. I don't think they know what they're doing. I don't think the DPF even needed cleaning, the term 'throwing parts' is resonating in the air. The truck is doing the exact same thing, it doesn't run any better or any worse than it did BEFORE I brought it in. Thanks for the info.

    111 - coolant, 131 is a short in the accelerator, 27 seems to be an actuator issue with the VGT turbo, 384 I can't find, and 131 comes back to an issue for the EGR pressure sensor. They sure know how to complicate this stuff.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2014
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  5. wonderdog24

    wonderdog24 Medium Load Member

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    Mar 1, 2012
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    turbo boost sensor.... give it a shot
     
  6. blr300

    blr300 Light Load Member

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    Jan 5, 2014
    St. Thomas Ont. Canada
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    I had same issues with boost. I would let it sit for an hour and boost was fine again....for a little while. Then no boost again. Turned out to be the turbo. Impeller inside was sticking from a worn shaft causing no boost. I had codes as well and actuator codes. Actuator was fine and tested so they reused it on the new turbo. Just make sure you keep checking your coolant after a new turbo because shops don't spend the time to properly bleed the air out of the system and you'll drive a half hour and be low on coolant. Good luck
     
  7. dieselpowerd

    dieselpowerd Bobtail Member

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    Feb 15, 2014
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    make sure they check the egr cooler properly, loosing 2 gallons coolant a week is a lot. Coolant mixing with the exhaust gases from a leaking cooler can gum up the vgt vanes on the turbo. an over/underspeed on the turbo cause by wrong vane position can throw off your idle. isx egr coolers can be damaged quickly if air pockets are not removed after coolant system has been drained
     
  8. vangtransport

    vangtransport Heavy Load Member

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    1st thing, those are not Cummins fault codes, I'm guessing you have a Volvo by the MID 128, you need the Cummins fault code number, example would be 691. 2nd, I would clean and inspect your manifold pressure sensor, & exhaust pressure sensor. Considering you probably don't have insight I would just replace them both, they are relatively cheap. If you have a short in your accelerator pedal you need to find it, however if it's a volvo if someone didn't put a cal file in correctly you will get that code as well, in any case it needs to get fixed, the ecm needs to know the position of the pedal. As for your coolant loss, it could be a number of things. Looking at your exhaust for steam in cold weather will tell you nothing, DPF systems are hot, in cold weather they create steam, it's happens on every DPF truck I've ever seen.
     
  9. snowwy

    snowwy Road Train Member

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  10. freightlinerman

    freightlinerman Road Train Member

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    This is a company truck, when the idle is high, I can go in the qualcomm and check the diagnostics. It shows fuel temp, engine load, accelerator pedeal percentage, etc. Anyways, when the idle is at 1,000 RPM, the pedal shows 0%, I can tap the gas pedal and modulate it and watch the % rise, IE 25% to WOT 100%.&nbsp;<br>
    The shop I went to did not know what they were doing I believe. I'm not a mechanic, but, if the DPF was plugged up, why was my truck able to regen, why wasn't there a DPF light on the dash flashing indicating a restriction, why was the CEL intermittent? WHY, after they cleaned it do I have the exact same symptoms still?<br><br>



    The turbo also makes a "tea kettle" like noise under full boost. When at the shop, they took off the clamp for the intake manifold, so I'm guessing they may have cleaned something off. The smorning, I had no boost at all unless I was over 1,600 RPM and it would surge. This was with NO CEL on. After 5 hours of driving, I got boost back and the truck has ran fine for the last 5-6 hours I've been driving. I don't know how long its going to last far. All I know, if I was running out west on hilly terrain, I would be on the back of a tow hook because I wouldn't have the power. When the truck acts up, letting out the clutch to slide the tandems, I can feel the engine struggling like it wants to stall.&nbsp;<br><br>

    I would really like to know how the shop came up with the diagnosis they did. I was skeptical when they said the turbo was bad after they had it for 3 days, I wanted to get out of there. When they told me this, I Was supposed to be able to check out after several broken promises of "It will be ready in an hour." I'm no mechanic, but using theory and logic would save a lot of wasted time and money on repairs that are not needed.&nbsp;
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2014
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  11. snowwy

    snowwy Road Train Member

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    what shop did you take it too.

    i've found the best service to be peterbilt. and rush truck centers. i WON'T go to kenworth. haven't tried cummins yet.

    but i've only been in pete and kw's.
     
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