I have a 2010 Prostar with a Maxxforce 13. It is the older style with the single EGR cooler. I just replaced the egr housing and cooler and that took care of the massive coolant loss I was having.
Most studs came out fine, but except for both studs on the center section of the exhaust manifold. I drilled and tapped, and added a gasket but things are just off enough to have a small exhaust leak.
Wondering what the best approach for this would be. If it's simple enough I can knock it out at our shop. It can't be much more difficult than the whole EGR assembly I just swapped.
Thanks,
George
2010 Maxxforce 13 exhaust manifold replacement
Discussion in 'International Forum' started by Gdille, Jan 12, 2022.
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So you are working on a 2007 emissions model Maxxforce 13? I show the exhaust manifold bolted to the head with all bolts, not studs. The turbo mount is by studs, is that what you mean? There is no gasket between the turbo and exhaust manifold, just a flush mount.
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The bolts for the egr up tube from the center section of the manifold to the egr are the issue. The vin on the truck comes back to 5/10 as the manufacturer date.
The leak is at the manifold to the uptube. Bolts to on the manifold to head are just fine. I'm trying to figure out what the best way to get the center section out, or replace the entire manifold. I slipped a gasket on the manifold/uptube to see if that would help seal things up. It helped but it didn't seal up. After running it a little yesterday to finish up a project I'd rather just fix the issue than treat a symptom.
The shop I normally go to have me a 4 month timeline a the local international dealer wanter 8k for the egr cooler, so I haven't asked about the manifold. -
Ok gotcha. Those EGR tubes are one time use. Replace the tube with a new one and new gaskets.
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So unfortunately my 2011 Maxforce 13 exhaust manifold is leaking at both fey ring joints I replaced the fey rings on the rear joint and it still leaked and i also discovered that the front cup joint is leaking too so I plan on changing the entire manifold. What needs to be taken off in order to complete the task?
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Fuel aeration is the usual cause of this. What can happen is the plastic fuel lines become hard and brittle and can develop very small cracks, or where the fuel line connector body is fastened to the fuel line also starts to become brittle and allows air to get sucked in. A good sign of this is actually just a small film of fuel developing at the location of the leak. Check over all your fuel lines for this.
2013Maxx Thanks this. -
Great thanks, nobody seems to have seen this code in my area
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