2019 Cascadia Skipshooter Installation

Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by madmoneymike5, Dec 13, 2019.

  1. madmoneymike5

    madmoneymike5 Medium Load Member

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    So, I took a leave of absence from the forum because I switched companies and am no longer driving the new-style Cascadia. While I'm very sad that I no longer drive that brand new truck with a ton of storage space, I am overall much happier at this new company.

    Since I switched companies and trucks, I've abandoned my previous thread of the same subject (except for the year model). This time, I learned from my mistakes from before and have managed to get everything connected in the right order the first time without damaging anything, and I have pretty good numbers to share. But first, I wanted to share pictures of the setup that I'm sure the old hands here will yawn at and be unimpressed by, but what the heck, I will do it anyway. :) I would, however, like some feedback about the flex I'm experiencing with this antenna at highway speeds. It's a bit concerning.

    Radio and mount:

    2019-12-11 10.37.41.jpg

    I created the above mount because there is no place for the radio in this truck. Where the shop says it's supposed to go (the sunglass holder just to the left of the mic in this picture) would require me to remove the sunglass holder, and even still, there is no means to secure the radio in that hole. Plus, it would look ugly with this giant hole there. So, I decided to create a mount for the radio using a sheet of plexiglass. I cut two pieces to size, glued them together with JB Weld Clear Epoxy, rounded off the edges with 100 grit, 320 grit, and 3000 grit sandpaper, cut the holes so the radio's angle could be adjusted, and then applied two layers of industrial velcro (two layers were needed to give enough space for the bolt and nut holding the bracket). I think I could probably put my entire body weight (150lbs) on this thing and it wouldn't come down...

    Now, on to the antenna...

    Here's the antenna looking out from the truck while stopped:

    2019-12-11 10.38.35.jpg

    Now, here's the part where I'm concerned about the bend/flex in the antenna. Please forgive the quality of this video because it's hard to do safely while driving. Notice the flex both backward and outward? I'm worried that this is going to cause something to break. When this video was taken, the wind was a very strong straight-ahead headwind (no crosswind) gusting to about 20 mph. I have the PVC pipe in place as was recommended by @rabbiporkchop (I think? or was it @Slowmover1?) when he built his rig, and while the antenna is mostly standing up while going down the road, the bend in it is very concerning for me. What do you guys think?

    Link to video

    I've driven since this video was taken in less windy conditions (last night, there was hardly any wind) and it stands straight up, but the arc still worries me.

    Do you think a heavy-duty spring like this one would help?

    2019-12-12 12.10.10.jpg

    Interesting hypothesis: My father-in-law has a background in physics and aerodynamics; he hypothesizes that the PVC tube is actually catching more air and helping to cause the flex. He recommends I try removing it and take the truck for a test drive to see. (I've only driven with the pipe on.) I intend to do just to satisfy my curiosity as soon as I can get home and get to a ladder tall enough to remove it without having to unscrew the antenna from the mount. (I figure, the less I mess with the antenna, the better.)

    The Numbers:

    I was able to test the SWR with both the internal and an external meter and I am getting 1.1 to 1.2 on the readouts on channel 19. (I know you're supposed to do 1 and 40, but since I never talk on those, I wanted to calibrate for 19 specifically.) I was able to reach a stationary contact approximately 5 miles away (as the crow flies) before his signal started to get scratchy and fade away. He reported the same. This is MUCH better than the 1 mile ahead to 3 miles behind I was getting with the stock antenna in my former 2020 truck. So, overall, I am very happy with these results.

    Noise:

    I did notice a whine in the static, usually as I climbed hills. Also, when my ParkSmart/Opti-Idle air conditioner behind the bunk is running while at a truck stop, there is considerable noise in the static. I had yet to install grounding straps between the door and door frame at the time I noticed this. In my 2020, it was all carbon fiber, which means grounding straps are useless, whereas I think this 2019 truck still has a metal body. Update - I started writing this thread yesterday but I've been waiting on Dropbox to finish uploading my photos. While I waited, I installed 1 grounding strap (that's all I have with me; the rest are at home) between the driver's side door bolt and a frame bolt. It might just be a coincidence, but during last night's drive, I no longer heard any whining noises. I am, however, still hearing a bit of extra static (though less so) when the bunk air conditioner is running at a truck stop.

    So, I'm looking for suggestions on how to clean up this noise and recommendations on where else I should install grounding straps.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2019
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  3. rabbiporkchop

    rabbiporkchop Road Train Member

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    The mounting bracket looks fine.

    I wouldn't recommend using that Spring at all.

    Ground strap from door bolt to chassis bolt sounds questionable.
    Ground strap should be around 6" long and go from the driver side door to the cab on the other side of the hinge and it should go from one side of the hinge to the other side of the hinge.

    Capacitors can be used to filter out noise.
     
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  4. madmoneymike5

    madmoneymike5 Medium Load Member

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    Thanks for dark or replying,It's Rabbi.

    It's dark or else I'd upload a photo of the ground strap as it stands. When I get a chance this weekend, I'll upload a photo and you can tell me if I'm doing it right or not; I'm a visual learner and reading your description isn't quite painting the mental picture I need.

    Rabbi, you're not worried about the amount of bend in the antenna?

    Lastly, what do you mean by capacitors? Like, the electrical components you could get at Radio Shack back in the day? If so, how? I guess I need you to elaborate.
     
  5. rabbiporkchop

    rabbiporkchop Road Train Member

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    Curing Radio Noise

    You can use caps as filters.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. craig_sez

    craig_sez Road Train Member

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    Been running my 7ft like that for awhile till i changed to a 1p2" whip on a 10"shaft..
    Ant will sway more without the pvc pipe..
    I only used about a 3ft piece and not almost same length as ant..I did at one time use solid pvc and it actually broke the mount but now i use the pvc that flexes,its the grey (color dont matter)indoor water tubeing..
    Forget that spring all together..
    In calibrateing that ant as mentioned..All your doing is just checking the ant by more or less resetting(when you use the cal setting)so that you can check each channel equally...
    If possible do your cal on the channels 1-40 while at normal highway speed..Im not a 100% sure but it might make a lil difference in ant tune vs sitting still..
    As for radio mount i built a bracket for my 16 cascadia that used the already vent holes on either side of your current solution...Just made a few measurements and drilled the bracket to fit those vent holes of the truck..It then will hold much more secure...Or use same idea you have now but on the dash and run pwr to battery(might help with whine)..
    Braided lines like rabbi mentioned on door hinge does help....When going direct from mount to frame of trk does only increase electrical length of ant and will mess with ant tune..
     
  7. madmoneymike5

    madmoneymike5 Medium Load Member

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    Cool! Need more though. Where do these go?

    I tried it. Its rearward flex was substantially less, but it did seem to develop a wobble (almost like a vibration) in the middle of the shaft. Decided I didn't like it. Went back to having the pipe.

    Mine is 4 feet. Looks longer than it actually is.

    Mine is also flexible PVC. Was originally white. Spray painted it black.

    Already forgotten.

    Don't think it'll make much difference either, but it's a neat idea just to be sure it's calibrated for the condition it will be used in most. I'll give it a try!

    I like mine and would like to run power to the battery. But not sure where the best place is to do that at and not sure if I'd get chewed out by the shop for doing that.

    Speaking of these straps, here are the pictures I promised.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. craig_sez

    craig_sez Road Train Member

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    Useing same name as here,chk out my youtube vids to get what i did to route coax and power/gnd wires..
     
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  9. madmoneymike5

    madmoneymike5 Medium Load Member

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    Did I forget to mention that this truck, though it's a 2019, is the old style?

    In your video, you said not to route the power to the fuse box hot and ground. Correct?
     
  10. craig_sez

    craig_sez Road Train Member

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    Yes..you can if you wanna but its gonna make it possible to pick up more electrical noises...Plus if your radio messes up it can have issues with the trk.

    Somewhere in the vids i also said im gonna change it...I ended up direct to battery
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2019
  11. madmoneymike5

    madmoneymike5 Medium Load Member

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    Right. You did say that. But that's what I was most curious about: what path did you take with the wiring to get there. But you're driving a new style Cascadia now so I don't expect you'll be able to show me visually. Lol
     
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