2022 Great Dane DV issues.

As far as new trailers go, I'd stay away from Hyundai. I can't tell you how many new ones have leaking wheel seals within the first 6 months to a year.

For your current trailer, the miles, weight, and where it's been all play a part in the bushings. The cost of an alignment and replacing the bushings will vary based on how much of a pain it is to replace them and if there are any other issues causing misalignment.
I wouldn't jump and replace all 4 wheel speed sensors, that may not even fix the issue. You can pull the blink codes when you're hooked up to the trailer, the process and codes are different for Wabco and Bendix but it's an easy process. The rotors are legal down to 37mm, after that they're a violation and I don't know if anyone turns them because of that. Any good mechanic can test whether your calipers are in good condition and moving freely when they should be.

*Disclaimer- I'm not trying to self-promote, just giving an example.*

Cost wise, and I'm only speaking for myself as I'm 100% mobile and don't charge the same as a shop, I can give you a rough estimate of what I'd charge in labor for your current concerns. Diag time would be 3 hours for ABS (checking codes, wiring, and seating), suspension (visually inspecting, lifting and manipulating, checking alignment), and calipers (visual inspection of boots, backing off & checking for movement, checking rotor & pad thickness and condition). All 4 shocks would be 3-3.5 hours depending on how bad the hardware is. Alignment would probably be 4-5 hours. Not factoring in parts, that's $1,550 depending how far away you'd be from me. If it's more than 15 minutes or so, it'd be another $135 (covers travel & mileage) so we'll say $1,685. That's for the high side of the labor estimates. If you were to want calipers, pads, and rotors, that would obviously up it but that's dependent on the inspection and diag.

 

I am getting close to that amount of miles on my 22 Utility Dry Van. I really need to get into it and see what all needs to be fixed up before something happens. I just replaced a Brake Chamber at cost of 350 for the part and 250 for the install. I have a feeling I have one more that needs to be replaced pretty soon. I need to check my pads closer to see what they look like. That is the one issue I hate on having disc brakes vs drum.

Not sure if you will run into anything else on the disc brakes like I did. But lots of the shops do not carry the correct Brake Chamber for disc and gonna guess they may not carry anything for them. So I would for sure call ahead and try and get that information answered before you stop. I am going to bring mine to Utility at the KCMO Peterbuilt dealer. They were pretty honest about what was being done when I had them install my arrow stuff. Not sure if they work on other trailers or not but I bet they do. If you call ahead they will work you in if they can FYI.

 

"The disk brakes are a real pain if they aren’t brand new. Inspecting them is next to impossible for the average driver OTR. Really the only way is to remove all the tires and that sure ain’t going to happen during my pre-trip inspections, lol."

At the 1 minute mark this video shows how to tell if the disc brake pads need to be replaced with the wheels on.
Bing Videos

See posts 4 and 11 in this thread. One could also buy an inexpensive inspection scope/camera.
Oooookay, how am I supposed to inspect Disc Brakes? | TruckersReport.com Trucking Forum | #1 CDL Truck Driver Message Board

 

For the drives/trailer just use the universal can. Mount it, leave it caged, loosen the clamp and rotate to line up the hoses. Or spend more and get a left or right can. Haldex universal is around $110, ProPack around $80

 

That pretty much sums it all up for me as well. No way gonna spend 50K on a trailer right now. Maybe next year it will come down a little more. I have had mine aligned once when I got the lift axle installed. I am the same and never use my brakes unless have too. Truck will go 1 million miles on brakes so not worried about them at all.

 

Wow, that would be incredible. Good return on investment.

 

I would rather have drums but most seem to be with disk now. When you need to slam pads in, it sure is fast. Like the old Jaguars. When disk brakes have a major issue like a caliper, it's big bucks and you're down for a few days. They fail in a big way.

Inspecting the pads can be done crawling under there once you get used to it. The Bendix tool is a waste of money. Trying to work it in there will drive you nuts. If you get under there with a good flashlight and look at the rotor, you have to see where the pad meets it. Finding a spot where you can see it can be a challenge. Eventually you can find the spot where the pad touches and you see the metal which is the rotor and you have 3 surfaces. Stare. You see the rotor. Then you see a strip of material touching it which is brake friction material. Then one more strip which is metal backing. When mine get to about 1/4", I'm planning brakes.

The other way is, on Bendix they put a little ridge on the bracket that holds everything on there. There is an identical ridge on the caliper. When the pads wears enough, the two ridges will be lined up (from the caliper sliding) and that tells you to pull the wheels and PROBABLY do the brakes. That's how it's supposed to be anyway.


Give me drums any day.