3406 exhaust manifold stud hole depth

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Gumper, Jul 3, 2019.

  1. Rick Wilmath

    Rick Wilmath Light Load Member

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    I have a 3406B with the same problem. I am selling this truck and don't want to put a lot more time/money into it but don't want to rip off the buyer either. Is it crucial to remove all of the old studs? If so what is the best way of getting them out (at least till they break)
    Thanks
     
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  3. Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    I attempted to remove the old studs. It didn’t take long to decide to leave them in. Most likely they’ll break, and you’ll be drilling them out. I learned a lot doing this job.
    Don’t waste time with bolt extractors. They break and your in for twice the work.
    Left handed drill bit is your friend.
    Use a jig that will center you on the broken stud. If that’s not available use a center punch, and be very patient keeping centered on the stud. Drill straight!
    Holes are about 7/8 deep. Don’t go through into the water jacket.
    Try to keep the bit smaller than the size needed to retap the holes. I was able to salvage 3/4 holes without a helicoil.
    Other than the broken stud removal it’s a simple job. Can have the manifold off and on in half an hour.
     
  4. Rick Wilmath

    Rick Wilmath Light Load Member

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    Thanks Gumper, I've read this entire thread and you have gone through the wringer!
    Where did you get the Jig?
     
  5. 062

    062 Road Train Member

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    You can leave the old ones in,but I recommend putting new nuts on.
     
  6. Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    Cat sells one, you can make one using the manifold as a guide. I used the center punch and lots of patience method.

    I put new nuts on. If I did it again I’d use aftermarket parts. For 6 exhaust gaskets, one exhaust sleeve, bag of studs, bag of nuts, thermostat housing gasket, three stud spacers, and a turbo return line o-ring it was $330. I’d use softer bolts from the hardware store next time so when they inevitably brake they are easier to remove. The torque spec is 28 ft lbs, and the lock nuts keep them from loosening up. The manifold is suppose to be able to expand and contract so it doesn’t break the studs. Make sure your slip joints aren’t bound up. I pulled my manifold apart to wire brush them then coated the joints with anti-seize. So far it’s working good.
     
  7. Rick Wilmath

    Rick Wilmath Light Load Member

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    What is the best way of getting the old nuts off. I have been soaking them in PB blaster and wondered if I should use and impact wrench to loosen them or a hard whack with a hammer or heat to the head?
     
  8. Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    The nuts came off easy with an impact, and some penetrating oil.
     
  9. Rick Wilmath

    Rick Wilmath Light Load Member

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    May 15, 2016
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    This is turning into a nightmare job. The exhaust manifold is off but two more studs broke when I tried to remove them so now I have 4 that need to be drilled out.

    Gumper, did you use a tap to clean out the existing holes or did you drill and tap a larger hole?
     
  10. Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    Exactly what happened to me. I used a tap to clean the threads up which worked on 3 of the 4. Try to avoid going too big with the bit.
     
  11. Rick Wilmath

    Rick Wilmath Light Load Member

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    May 15, 2016
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    How were you able to start the tap on the threads so it didn't booger up the threads?
     
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